Travel Photo Thursday. Isandlwana, Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa.

Memorial to the over 1,000 Zulu who died at Isandlwana. The British camp was between the small hill on the left and the foreground of Isandlwana hill. 

The Battle of Isandlwana, January 22, 1879 was the first major battle of the Zulu War and resulted in a crushing victory by Zulu warriors over invading British troops. Lord Chelmsford had divided his force, forging ahead to the east, hoping to contact the main Zulu Impis, and left his supply and reserve forces camped under the watching eye of the 'Sphinx', the hill known as Isandlwana. Ignorance or arrogance precluded any attempt to fortify the camp: no expectation of attack was contemplated. Meanwhile the main Zulu impis had advanced unseen towards the encampment, bypassing to the north Lord Chelmsford's searching column. On the morning of the 22nd, a small patrol discovered the main impi force, precipitating an immediate attack on the British camp. More than 1300 troops, irregulars and support personnel were slaughtered in the worst military disaster inflicted by a 'native' army against the British Army.
http://www.britishbattles.com/zulu-war/isandlwana.htm

Later that day the Zulu impis went on to attack the little settlement at Rorke's Drift, this battle immortalised in the 1964 film "Zulu" starring Michael Caine.

"Zulu" has been said to be the single most inspiring South African tourism advert ever.

I can say it certainly inspired our interest in South Africa's history and to visit the Battlefields area of KwaZulu-Natal. We went on to explore much of the area where Zulu-Boer, Zulu-Anglo and Boer-Anglo wars were fought. With a South African guide, and using local guides we were able to learn more about the complex history of conflict in South Africa, and how this places this huge country with its multitudes of tribes, races, and cultures in the modern world.

Looking from the other direction across the battlefield.
White stone cairn memorials mark British dead. 

The British camp spread across the foreground and to the right of the picture. The white stone cairns mark the spot where Chelmsford's forces buried the remains 4 months later. Each small cairn marks 25 bodies. Larger cairns mark 50 bodies buried. To the extreme right of the hill of Isandlwana, or the 'toe of the boot" is a white marker denoting the position where some of the last remaining holdouts who retreated up the hill were killed. 

Travel Photo Thursday is on again where travel bloggers post up their great pics from around the world. Join us. Post up yours and head over to Nancie's Budget Traveler's Sandbox and link into the fun!

Travel Photo Thursday. Isandlwana, Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa.

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YouTube Tuesday: Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu.

This is a very special presentation for YouTube Tuesday. A gentleman born blind, who creates amazing melodies. Gurrumul draws on his heritage of his Gumatj nation from North East Arnhemland, Northern Territory, Australia, and sings songs that emanate from the depth of his heart, reaching out and touching your soul leaving you rejuvenated and inspired. How does someone create such beautiful songs?  This performance is extraordinary for his ability to draw your emotions to the surface, surround you with peace, and leave you wanting more. I guarantee you will press replay. 

Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu

We first heard this singer-songwriter in South Africa, when we were staying at a guesthouse in the Battlefield's area. The housekeeper's daughter who lives in Australia had recently sent his CD across. Gurrumul remains as a backdrop to our Battlefields tour, the peaceful and inspiring qualities of his music contrasting eerily with the history of conflict and death in such a beautiful land. Returning home I sought out some of his music and now appreciate Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu as the greatest indigenous Australian musical performing artist.


Grab a coffee, kick off your shoes, lean back, close your eyes and let this performance envelop you. 


Then share this widely...more people deserve to enjoy him.


More info, songs and lyrics are found here- http://gurrumul.com



Share your favorite video every Tuesday. Be Creative, and have fun. The video can be about anything.
Visit Tiger Time for more great YouTube Tuesday great selections. Josh is the man with the plan! Leave your name and link in his linky tool so everyone can view your video selection.

Leave your link in my comments section so I can drop by and see your choice.

YouTube Tuesday: Geoffrey Gurrumul Yunupingu.

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The Most Beautiful Dog You Will See!

Lilly, at Naankuse. Isn't she a stunner! A big, beautifully patterned girl. Photo by Naankuse.

 Lilly is one of a pack of 14 African Painted Dog  pups taken in early last year by Naankuse. You can read about this in an earlier post - Who let dogs out.

 The African Painted Dog, Lycaon pictus, also referred to as African Wild Dog or Cape Hunting Dog, once numbered over 500,000 across 39 countries, but now there are only about 3,000-5,500 in perhaps 14 countries. As wilderness areas lessen due to human encroachment, wildlife is pushed into smaller and unconnected areas, numbers fall too low, scattered pockets of survivors cannot mate with new 'blood' and the gene pool is diluted in strength. The pack may be cut off from infusions of new, stronger genes. This lack of new gene infusion is now identified as a prime cause of falling numbers of many species, such as lions. Nature's way survival of the fittest by inheriting new stronger genes has been interfered with by human encroachment.

 Lilly pictured above, is named after our own mongrel. She is one of 14 Wild Dog pups taken in last year by Naankuse, a wildlife sanctuary and re-rehabilitation centre just east of Namibia's capital Windhoek. The critical level of Wild Dogs in Namibia, now around 350, compelled the removal of 14 young pups from the den on a farmer's property where they could have faced persecution. Usually the mother would soon bring forth another litter. These 14 pups plus the 2 male brothers already at Naankuse are to form the basis of a breeding centre for release. Some of these Wild Dogs will be swapped with other centres to increase gene pool diversity. That would be particularly good if survivors in areas where diseases have occurred are brought in to breed disease resistance traits through to new generations.

 Wild Dog breeding and re-introduction programs are fraught with difficulties in maintaining healthy captive populations. Generally inoculation against disease such as canine distemper is required. Released progeny may be inoculated but their wild born pubs will have to take their chances. Wild Dogs range over vast territory, often taking them into close contact with villages or farms where livestock predation returns them the farmer's ire, usually with them being wiped out as just another pest.

 Research and a planned program for release is essential. Ensuring there are large enough wilderness areas with a sustainable prey base well away from humans is also a problem.

 Naankuse is developing a national management strategy for reintroducing captive wild dogs back into their natural habitat.  There will be an international workshop bringing together experts from all over the world in wild dog management and introduction to formulate a working plan. They plan to hold this in September but need to raise funds for it to happen. Even a $10 donation will help.

Lilly is our adopted Wild Dog. We have just renewed our subscription.

Easy to pay by PayPal here- Naankuse PayPal

Since writing this article I have been advised by Naankuse that Namibian Laws do not allow captive breeding. Plans have been reformulated. This message from Naankuse-  "Naankuse is not a breeding centre ...for wild dogs, breeding in captivity in Namibia is illegal but what we will be is a holding facility to allow supervised pack formation of captive-reared and wild-caught dogs, which can then be released back into the wild. Keep up the good work!"

BTW-

Here's an interesting example of gene differentiation within a species.

Take a look at this photo I took in 2009 when our family volunteered at Naankuse . The pair of brothers that have been in the sanctuary for a few years, and will be included in the program.

Note the ears are more pointed, like a domestic dog to which they are not related.

........................................................................................................................................................................

And this is Lilly, our mongrel. Kay asked me to add this pic so both our Lillys are showing.

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Our Lilly.

Our Lilly in Namibia. Photo by Naankuse

The Most Beautiful Dog You Will See!

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Our Family's New Dog!

We have a mut. A rescue mut. She was supposed to be a wee dog when we got her. But you never can really tell when they're 4 month's old just how big they will eventually grow. Size of the feet! That's a pointer to their adult size. Works most of the time, but in this case someone didn't mention how long their legs could grow!

So we ended up with a horse!

That is one long legged, mongrel! Grown from a pup, who had been lost on Wellington's streets for months, probably a Christmas puppy gift, abandoned, found just skin and bones, starving, lost most of her hair, in such bad shape SPCA were going to euthanise her. But they took her in, gave her 2 weeks to respond to feeding or it was the end for her. Luckily she recovered.
We'd seen many dogs that left me cold that day at the Wellington SPCA when we went there to get another after 2 long time family dogs had passed on. And we'd made a pact it was going to be a small dog, something easy to manage, a dog we could leave with friends when we took off on our often long gone travels. When we saw her we knew nothing of her past, just a pup being walked past us on a leash by a wonderful volunteer walker.
When this pup walked past us, something just clicked!
And I said that's our dog.
And Lilly became part of our lives. Well, mainly mine. She and I walk to work each day. She minds my shop. Barks like mad to tell me a client is coming up the drive, then walks out the back to allow them in. She's my companion at work. Deaf to my endless rabbitting on. Forever pretending attentiveness to my latest profound diatribe. Never argues back. Just takes it on her chin as if to say "Get it off your chest. I'm listening!"
Why can't all the women in my life be like that?!!

And now our family has another dog.

Well not at home, but in Namibia. And it's not a dog you would want at home as they're rather untameable. Our new dog is an African Wild Dog or Painted Dog- one of Africa's most endangered animals. Originally estimated to number in excess of 500,000 and ranging across vast areas in Africa below the Sahara. Now sadly numbers have declined to less than 5,000! Hunting, disease and loss of wild habitat have all taken their toll.
african wilddog
At Naankuse, Namibia last August we had the privilege of seeing these up close. There are two brothers in a huge enclosure, as when taken in as pups, close human habituation has left them vulnerable if released into the wild, having lost their fear of humans. Sometimes sanctuaries have to balance up the ethics of keeping an animal in captivity against the realities of an uncertain fate if released.
Read about Naankuse here- Naankuse sanctuary
NaanKuse have recently taken in 14 wild dog pups from an area where they face persecution. With less than 200 wild dogs, (some estimates as low as 150) in all of that huge country of Namibia, there was very slim chance those pups would survive. But with possibly 10% of the entire wild dog population's survival at stake,what else should have been done?
Naankuse on facebook

Sure, the pups now in care will be human habituated, and now be unsuitable for survival if released.
This website has been set up with the object of helping fund conservation projects just like this. So our family has adopted one of these pups. And around May 2011, we will visit Naankuse and see first hand how our pup is. Take that first step in direct assistance in protecting Africa's diminishing wildlife. Adopt a Wild Dog Pup. That pup needs you!
If you have Paypal already set up then you can send the donation to donationsnaankuse@iway.na
and put in the notes £50 for wild dog pup. Or use your credit card.

Our Family's New Dog!

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The Face of Beauty.

This is the Face of modern beauty today-
Yep do you like this picture?
Do you cringe with disgust and recoil in horror from such a beautiful face, the modern face of youthfulness, of never ageing, of unlined and unblemished perfection?
Hey, it's just a rhino missing half its face, namely it's horns. Don't worry, they've just been chainsawn off while it's still alive but drugged or heavily tranquilised -yes surely-so it didn't feel any pain...until it wears off! And now the Chinese retailers of rhino horn are demanding and paying for the best, and that's got to come from live rhino, not those shot and then hacked off.
No, it's  got to be alive because then it's got the highest potency. And when people around this world have got the dosh to spend trying to beat the effects of ageing to retain their youthful looks, to fool themselves or be in denial that they are ageing or getting more wrinkles, crows feet, and more blemishes, and in desperation seek out  any exotic remedy to beat Nature, it just doesn't matter that a little pill of powdered rhino horn can be bought.
It's only a little bit anyway. Just a little...but that's another rhino doomed!


Well that rhino's face was once beautiful. And one of the most beautiful sights you'll ever see is the face of a rhino, with a full set of horns, and a young rhino beside her. But sadly that rhino will suffer horribly and die. Hopefully a game ranger may euthanise her.

The other face of beauty.

And this is the other face of beauty.

Read the report here-

Elle Eats rhino horn!

She has since recanted and protested it was just a joke.
A joke!
Elle says joke!

This is the reality of rhino poaching, fuelled by it's use in Traditional Chinese Medicine as an aphrodisiac. And powdered rhino horn is also prescribed to treat chest pains, convulsions, snake bites, food poisoning, fevers -anything almost– and now it looks like a new folklore has sprung up around it as an anti-ageing remedy.
How many people reading Elle's outlandish statement may be desperate enough, and rich enough, to want to believe it?
http://www.stoprhinopoaching.com/

South African National Parks (SANParks) reports suggest that rhino poaching in South Africa has escalated even further since the beginning of the year, with 92 rhinos having been lost in the past five months alone.

The Kruger National Park is being particularly hard hit : 33 rhinos have been lost so far this year.
Four of the five rhinoceros species occupy spots on the top 100 EDGE endangered mammals list .

We visited Kruger National Park August last year, and were privileged to view rhino on a number of occasions. Their poor eyesight allowing you to sit quietly in your car,while their massive great bulk amble slowly towards you like a creeping armoured vehicle, cropping the grass as they came. And it was really comical as one used a huge rock to scratch itself.
So this photo is the face of real beauty -a rhino with it's horn- as it should be.

The Face of Beauty.

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Crocodile deaths.

Our experiences watching crocodiles in the Kimberley while on our Extraordinary Taxi Ride reminded me about the sad situation we encountered in South Africa, up at Imbambala Wilderness Trails Camp situated in Loskop Dam Nature Reserve.
It's a beautiful part of South Africa, and Imbambala is a great place to game view, and I wrote about our rhino incident here- rhino incident

Prior to travelling to SA, I had been researching our trip and the Loskop Dam area on an online forum for SA National Parks. It's probably the best forum I have come across for the wealth of information on all sorts of wildlife, plants, and the whole range of traveller facilities available throughout all the National Parks in SA. Take a look here- SA Parks Forum . I really like the ambience of the forum, and the helpful and welcoming tone of all the members. There is a thread on whatever animal, insect or plant you could think of. It's a credit to the administrators and members alike. Well done!

I was briefly reading a thread regarding the deaths of crocodiles in the Olifants River system in Kruger Park and it had perked my interest - croc deaths so I read the full thread mentioning over 30 deaths, and followed the link -Media release on crocodile deaths.

Then thought very little about it until the day we were power boating across Loskop Dam towards our stay at Imbambala, late last July.Colin ,our host gave us an interesting run down on the reserve and the lake, then he mentioned that the Olifants River flowed through the dam.So I asked him about the croc deaths in the river further down in Kruger, and he was very aware of the problem.The fish in the dam are dying.In one bay he reckoned they pulled from the water 21 tons of dead rancid fish!Cause of the fish deaths is thought to be contaminated water because of mining run offs flowing into the upstream rivers. water report The report at that link is more specific as it cites changes in the phytoplankton "We think there may be a possible link between two phytoplankton species that we found in the lake, and which interact with the aquatic ecosystem foodweb". And that change may have been the result of mining run off upsetting water quality.Or it may be because new types of phytoplankton have been introduced and found conditions ideal for a bloom to occur.It is a popular recreational lake for boaties, and new organisms can be introduced on boats or their gear.Now in New Zealand we're facing an ecological disaster in our once pristine rivers and streams from Didymo,rock snot thought to have been introduced into the country in anglers gear, quite probably their felt soled boots.I've had a very strong interest in this , not just as a keen amateur biologist but from the perspective of my trade as a custom shoemaker.I am often asked to remove the felt soles from expensive wading boots and replace with a non-slip rubber sole.Felt soles have been banned to try and limit the spread of the spores further.

But back to crocodiles.It is thought the deaths of crocs is because they feast on the dead and often rancid fish, and this then causes pansteatitis in them, causing their fatty tissue to harden to a degree where a crocs mobility is so affected they can no longer move to catch prey and they starve to death.Crocodylus niloticus  or  nile crocodile doesn't stand much of a chance.
And nor does the associated river systems reaching right across Kruger National Park, South Africa's greatest wildlife treasure.It needs concerted action here to stop this ecological disaster getting worse.

An epilogue to this post concerns this photo nearby of two crocodiles.I couldn't find the Nile croc photo we took down towards St Lucia in South Africa, so many to go through , so I posted this photo of two Siamese Crocodiles we photographed in a cage while travelling in Cambodia, Jan 2007.
Read here. Critically endangered Siamese Crocodiles
Read about the virtual elimination of this species from the wild in SouthEast Asia.Sadly hunted to near extinction for it's skin which is of the softest of all the crocs.Sure, 1,000's exist in croc farms, often in appalling conditions and killed and skinned inhumanely.All for the sake of fashion.I suggest the only redeeming feature of croc farms is that at the very least they have kept the Siamese Crocodile  from absolute extnction.And the loss of any one animal species is sad for our biodiversity.
So all you out there wearing real croc shoes, and carrying a real croc skin purse, look what you're doing to this world!

Oops, found our Nile Croc photo....
And just a point, we weren't silly enough to get up close to that croc!He's faster than we are.It's just the camera angle makes it look close.You gotta keep your distance, as they can cover ground so quickly.No way was I going any closer as my wife can run faster than me!

Crocodile deaths.

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African Safari with Greenbushpig Safaris.July/August 2009.Part One.

 

Our guide quietly signalled  for us to proceed.Silently, single file,we followed as he led  us through the thick undergrowth.We'd left  the dirt track and now we were tracking spoor through the bush.Easy to do as broken scrub,smashed saplings, and torn up dirt evidenced a trail of large beasts crashing through the bush.We were following the trail of jousting male rhino. There was something up ahead, we could not only sense it, we could smell it also.A deep cloying, pungent smell wafting towards us on the gentle breeze.At any minute that Cape Buffalo we knew that was around could break cover and charge us.We'd have no warning.If they know you're tracking them, they may remain stationary, awaiting their foe to approach, often after hooking around and backtracking to lie in wait for anyone following their spoor past their ambush spot.Could we outrun it? No, but then all I had to do was outrun any one of the others!As long as I was faster than Russell our safari guide,I'd be okay.He got us into this, he can get us out! But I wouldn't be running...there was Kay to think about.All those Wilbur Smith novels of wild animal encounters were running through my mind.Imagination in a tense time like this can boil over.We were getting close, perhaps too close to our target.That smell was getting real strong!Colin our guide  held his rifle ready to bring it into firing position.That was an elephant stopping .45, and it looked bloody good to me.He'd told us we may see Cape Buffalo, but if we were so close to smell them like this,surely that's too close for safety? Africa's most dangerous beast! Hey, this was getting scary!

I'm sure Colin knew his job and wouldn't take us into unnecessary danger.He's got a wealth of experience,and surely been in situations like this before.He and Nick were our hosts at Imbambala Wilderness Trails Camp at Loskop Nature Reserve's Wilderness area and is only a 2 hour drive from Oliver  Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg.This was the start of our great adventure with Green Bushpig Safaris operated by Russell Frankish, a guy I had met on cyberland travel forums.Some long chats about Africa and wildlife had established a rapport, so that when we struck real problems with planning our trip last year to South Africa and Namibia, he offered a solution that turned out just great.A custom designed safari taking in all the places we wanted so much to visit, plus a lot more, and within the dates we were chained to.So our first day was driving up from Pretoria to Loskop Dam where we were met by Colin and taken across the Dam lake by outboard boat ,game driving from bank to bank all the way.What a wonderful way to be introduced to safari game viewing! Spot game on the bank, motor towards them, cut your motor,and slowly  drift right up to view them so close.Spectacular.

That rhino had a tremendously wicked horn on him, and we didn't know it then but we were going to find out later just how it can be used to devastating effect in a conflict. And it was our first glimpse of giraffe in the wild.Such majestic creatures.If ever there was a prize for the most graceful of creatures, giraffe would surely take the trophy!We could sit and watch giraffe for hours. We were to see many at our Imbambala stay.

Accommodation was in the most delightful tented chalets,set high on raised platforms,strategically placed so privacy from other tents was ensured.And so crocodiles don't wander through the tent!Downside was,toilets and showers were 50 metres away rather than ensuited in our tents.But we could live with that.....we thought we'd be very comfortable.So we settled in, spruced up after a long drive, and toddled off down to the bar and restaurant, another large tented affair.Very quaint with good ambience and an outlook over the trees to the dam lake.We noted where the ablution blocks were as we were sure we'd be making visits in the dark.Colin's business partner Nick just has to be one of the great bush chefs, cooking up a fabulous meal that night.However, we struck a weather freak, with a real cold front coming through straight off the Antarctic and soon a  bone chilling cold set in.And we froze!This, in Africa!? The temperature dropped right out of that glass.Off to bed that night, in our tent,it was so cold we could feel the cold coming up through the mattress,even though we piled all the blankets from the other two beds upon us and snuggled up together.And just as we were feeling like we were beginning to thaw out, feeling a bit warm even, that dreaded nighttime busting feeling comes on....so out we go into the frozen cold.Traipsing off ,torch in hand,hoping we don't meet up with Mr Leopard who's been coughing off and on during the night on the hill behind us.Hopefully he's made a kill and wasn't interested in two frozen Kiwis!

Walking safari with our host Colin as guide for the morning activities.Colin leading,then Kay,myself and Russell as tail end Charlie.And not 50 metres from camp Colin stops and surveys the ground.Pointing to broken shrubs,and churned up turf he asks what we thought had happened here.Rhino tracks he pointed out, and told us male rhino had been fighting.They are very territorial beasts and each male will stake out a large territory by creating dung middens at the edges of it's territory.Problem in a huge fenced reserve such as Loskop being that breeding may be too successful and  young males can not just wander off and stake out  new territory for themselves.Colin mentioned that in the past months, 4 young males had been found dead.Presumably killed by the dominant bull rhino,out to eliminate any new competitors.There's a case to be made for  the dominant bull to be taken out by hunters, thereby allowing a new phase of genes in the pool to come through.At the very least,perhaps a relocation program of the young bulls should be instituted.Money......

Cape Buffalo have been in the area Colin says.And we are to be very careful as they are probably still around.That warning didn't need to be made.....

We followed  the trail of disturbed undergrowth quietly,heading towards the top of the hills behind our camp.That smell getting stronger.Finally we came upon our quarry.Luckily, not a herd of Buffalo but sadly, another dead  male rhino.The young rhino wouldn't have stood a chance.Such a sad sight to behold.The wicked length of the horn on the bull rhino we'd seen while boating in, had done it's damage.Colin said the death would be reported, and the small horn removed.So sad, and here is the conundrum.How come there are so many rhino at Loskop to have dominance fatalities occurring, but elsewhere in all parts of Africa, rhino are on the brink of being poached  out?

Imbambala Wilderness Trails was a wonderful start to our safari in South Africa.It exposed us to how Africa truly is.Raw,exciting,and at times cruel,with an undercurrent of unexpected danger, and always unfathomable to an outsider. 

For more information on rhino and conservation programs refer here-

http://savetherhinotrust.org/

http://www.rhinofund.org.nz/

http://sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/html/rhino_conservation.html

African Safari with Greenbushpig Safaris.July/August 2009.Part One.

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Kanna's big smile!

Kanna is a young San Bushman boy , a Polio survivor who is finally off to school wearing  his new custom made boots, handmade by myself.

We were pleased to hear from Naankuse, when 9 of  the older San Bushman children started at the schools in Windhoek, Namibia in January. Securing mainstream education for this marginalised community is a huge step forward in providing them with a better future. Too often San Bushman children of Namibia miss out on even a basic education. Until last year, very few of the Bushman children of the families at Namibian Wildlife Sanctuary received any education at all. But an amazing woman - Gill, took up the challenge while a volunteer at Naankuse, and organized  a school program for all the children, ranging in age from toddlers to high school age.

School was set up under the shelter at the end of one of the volunteer dormitory blocks. Tables and chairs were scrounged, a few books donated by volunteers, pigs were kicked out of the way, and the kids got down to learning. Which they took to like ducks too long out of water!

In August 2009, Kay and I met up with our daughters Emma and Elissa, for a family volunteer get together at NaanKuse, Namibian Wildlife Sanctuary. Set on a 15,000 hectare farm, situated 45kms from Windhoek's Hosea Kuteo Airport, it's easily accessible and very handy to Namibia's capital Windhoek to allow for a days escape shopping, or a Sunday afternoon pigging out at Joe's Beer Hall.

We were going to spend 2 weeks as wildlife volunteers. A chance to make a little difference in the grander scheme of things while travelling and learning much more about Southern Africa than the average tourist ever does. Not for us travelling to the next photo stop and ticking that off. Nope, we want more out of our travels. Lasting memories, experiences that test us, encounters with wildlife, and a sense that we just might have made a difference.

So Naankuse was selected as our great family adventure. Kay and I had spent 18 days on safari around South Africa, met up with Elissa in Pretoria, then we 3 flew across to Windhoek. With Emma flying down from the UK to join in a day later. I had been recommended Naankuse from a guy I had met on EHRA's Desert Elephant project. He had spent time there after we finished that project in 2008, and Dave had raved about the place, and revealed falling for a cute wee baboon there....

Little did we realise just how easy it is to fall for those cuddly and fun, mischievous baboons!. Gorgeous!

Along with caring for the variety of rescued wildlife, Naankuse offers volunteers other programs to use their skills. Choose what suits you here-

Wildlife Conservation Volunteer, Teaching and Wildlife Volunteer, Lifeline Clinic Medical Volunteer, Carnivore Conservation Volunteer or even Mechanic and Tradesman Volunteer. For more info go here-
Naankuse
 Accommodation is basic but adequate. We found ourselves in a room that could  take 3 beds easily, but the staff looked after Kay and I, and we didn't share with anyone else. Normally it's 3 to a room. Meals are filling, varied and well prepared in a large kitchen/dining area that is usually opened right up for the warm months. I think most couldn't wait to get at  the warm, fresh muffins served daily for morning tea! Kay has just reminded me about the half cooked spaghetti one night...and the other night when late comers missed out altogether! The joys of volunteering!
Hey, you want 5 star. You book 5 star!
Showers and toilets were cleaned everyday by the local San ladies. Just as well they were on the job each day, as the pigs had a habit of wandering through them if someone had neglected to latch the gate in the fence outside our block. And if one of those juvenile baboons escaped our grasp while bathing them it was a mad ruckus in the shower block trying to catch a flying bundle of screeching fury! Bedlam at times but great memories.
And the San ladies did all our laudry and got it back to us daily.
Right outside, at the end of our block was the school area where Kay got involved with looking after the children. She's a pre-school teacher back home so slipped straight into the role, teaching them a few new songs and games. We learned that when the children first all arrived at school, none of them knew how to play. This was a new experience for them. But slowly they cottoned on, and it was rewarding to see how each looked after each other. The eldest looking out for the younger, and they looking after the youngest. With the father away working on the farm, the mother would have to leave the children, no matter how old they were to their own devices for several hours. Hence the start up of the school served another purpose in that all the children were being cared for while the parents worked.
Around the back of our block was a trench in the ground in the shape of a rectangle. This we found out was the foundation trench for the proposed new children's school. After you've spent time during the heat of the day digging that out more, it kind of sticks in your memory! But dig we did. 

Back home,we followed on Naankuse's Facebook site the building, painting and grand opening of Clever Cubs School. What a wonderful achievement!
Facebookers go here -Clever Cubs
And in just a few short months, the older children had received enough tuition to allow them to start school in Windhoek.
Watch a video clip of the children’s first day at school Off to Windhoek school

We'd noticed one of the boys at play, hopping around awkwardly, obviously crippled in some way. Namibia is one of the last few countries where polio was known. World Health Organisation expects this disease will be wiped out in the foreseeable future. Kanna is a polio survivor and one leg is severely stunted and his shoes were badly worn and desperately in need of replacement. But new surgical boots made in Cape Town were beyond his family's ability to buy, so Naankuse would need to find all that money. Being a custom and surgical shoemaker myself I could hardly not accept the challenge. So we measured him up and on my return home, I made him a pair of black boots suitable for school wear.
And sent them over at no charge, taking 3 months to be delivered. I guess someone finally got off their backsides in the local Post Office after a tracking notice went out! But we were so thrilled to hear they finally arrived for Kanna.
Have a look at his smile!

Kanna's big smile!

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N/a’an ku sê - Why Volunteers Matter.

I have asked N/a’an ku sê to write a piece about the role of volunteers ,and their important contribution to succesfully operating the sanctuary,not just in terms of their monetary contribution, but also in the skills and physical effort they contribute.When I spent time at Naankuse, I was amazed at how many people, of all ages travel from afar,to devote their holiday time to the care of some beautiful animals.And by the number who stay for so long, or return, some several times.But then, it shouldn't be so amazing, after all it is a magical place!

And where else can you get your very own personal groomer...

The following has been submitted by N/a’an ku sê.I have added photos to their text.Enjoy.

About N/a’an ku sê
Since 2007, N/a’an ku sê Lodge & Wildlife Sanctuary has been committed to playing a key role in conservation and the protection of the Namibian wildlife, land and people. Our vision is an Africa where humans and wildlife can live and thrive together. Our mission is to conserve the land, cultures and wildlife of Namibia and rescue species threatened by an ever-shrinking habitat.

We do not receive any government funding and are solely reliant on voluntary donations and the time of volunteers to continue our vital work to help the people and animals of Namibia. All the money raised through our volunteering program goes directly back into the project which provides employment, education and accommodation to the local Bushman community and helps to ensure the rescue, survival and rehabilitation of the animals which are housed in natural environments around the site.

Our volunteers
We have a very special relationship with our volunteers as they are key to the success of our projects and we simply couldn’t do without them. In return, we provide volunteers with the rare and exciting opportunity to work closely with and actively participate in the conservation of African wildlife.

N/a’an ku sê is one of those places where some people just find themselves. They find their family, their friends, their home and their future here. Many staff members were once volunteers who couldn’t quite bring themselves to leave. Any many volunteers come back time after time to be together with the animals they fell in love with. For the Wildlife volunteers in particular, it’s hard not to form special bonds with some of the animals after spending all day every day with them and in the case of baby baboons, sleeping with them throughout the night too.

To hear direct from volunteers themselves about their experiences, follow these links:
http://www.ecotourism-namibia.com/volunteer/volun_story.html
http://www.ecotourism-namibia.com/volunteer/volun_release_expect.html

All ages....just a few of the great people you meet.

Volunteers stay with us for any length of time between 2 weeks and 3 months. It’s an extremely sad experience saying goodbye when people leave – for N/a’an ku sê staff as well as the volunteers themselves. Thanks to our Facebook page ( www.facebook.com/naankuse ) we can all stay in touch with each other and volunteers can be kept up to date with the latest goings on here and pictures and videos of the animals growing up.

We run several projects at N/a’an ku sê all of which volunteers can join:

1. Wildlife Conservation Volunteer
Our Wildlife Sanctuary provides a safe refuge for orphaned and injured wildlife including a number of lions, leopards, cheetahs, wild dogs, caracals and baboons. Our Wildlife Conservation Volunteers provide an important resource in caring for and feeding the animals on a daily basis, helping to maintain the sanctuary and becoming surrogate parents to our baby baboons who need constant care and attention.

Now what does that spell?

2. Carnivore Conservation Research Volunteer

These lions are huge!

Our Carnivore Conservation Research Project plays a vital role in rescuing and releasing threatened cats in Namibia to help reduce human-wildlife conflict. This programme offers a unique opportunity to play a hands on part in the tracking, monitoring and conservation of wild cheetah and leopard as well as caring for other African wildlife.

3. Teaching and Wildlife Conservation Volunteer

Kay found working with the youngsters to be the best experience!

Our Clever Cubs School provides vital free education to San Bushman children whose parents work at the sanctuary and who would otherwise not have access to education. There are currently around 25 children aged between 1 and 7 years attending. This unique programme combines teaching four days a week (assisting our teacher with the children), as well as the opportunity to work hands on at an animal sanctuary one day a week.

4. Medical Conservation Volunteer
Our Lifeline Clinic is a medical outreach project which provides free treatment to the local Bushman community in a remote area of Namibia, called Epikuro. Volunteers assist the doctor and nurse in the running of the clinic, participating in observations, helping in the dispensary and on reception. Volunteers also learn a lot about the San community and their way of life.

To book as a volunteer at N/a’an ku sê or for more information, please email  bookingsnaankuse@iway.na

N/a’an ku sê - Why Volunteers Matter.

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Weekly Desktop Photo. 2.

Making out at Etosha.
I've been asked by a friend more about Okaukuejo Camp at Etosha Park in Namibia, and coincidentally, this photo has been on my work computer desktop.One of our all time favourite photos.So I guess it's no coincidence, as I really like it, so it would be showing somewhere.

click on image for full screen.

The big bull ele is chatting up his sweatheart .Just like the kids today, making  out at the pickup wateringholes in any downtown bar area.
"Okay honey,what you doing in a pickup joint like this?"or "Hey, you wanna just hang out here heh?"
"Oh you are a big boy....",Or as the old Mae West line would go..."Is that a banana in your pocket, or are you just pleased to see me?"
Naah, I guess the kids today have got better lines than that!Or do they just text each other?
Still, it's a great photo.Taken from the viewing area overlooking the main wateringhole at Okaukuejo.And no, the wildlife can't get to you.There's a big rock wall enclosing the whole camp,and seats just behind that, so you can sit there all day, and night watching an endless procession of animals coming in to tank up.Depending what time of year, and how dry the country is, will see more animals needing to drink at the permanent waterholes such as this.
You really don't have to be told about the size of this bull elephants tusks.Tiny aren't they in contrast to our story book images of huge tusked elephants.Well, truth is ,while  there are a few big tuskers around,  sadly, the large tuskers have been the most sought out for their tusks, so consequently, it's smaller tusked eles that have survived.And they are mainly the breeding stock  today.
For those of you that have even the tiniest bit of concern or interest in Africa's elephants,have a read of this organisation's website.Explore their pages.Read of the valuable work they do in rescuing young baby elephants.Take the time to access the other pages on this site and read about the research that is going on about elephant social structure,how they show deep concern for each other, the dangers they face from poachers.You may grow to respect them as I do.
http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/index.asp

Weekly Desktop Photo. 2.

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Goodbye to Namibia.Or is it?

You'll have read of our time at Na'an Kuse' where my wife and I and our 2 daughters spent 2 weeks together. But when we waved the girls goodbye, it was time for a quickie 5 day self drive on our own, around one small part of Namibia, (the area where I had been on volunteer project with Elephant-Human Relations Aid in 2008.): a sort of zip around to say a reluctant goodbye to a country you can fall in love with, as it holds a lot of memories but that we may never get back to - sadly!

So picked up a prebooked Nissan X-trail 4wd from Avis at Windhoek's airport and we hit the road. First day saw us cutting across to Omaruru intending to get to Brandberg/Ugab River area. Thought I'd like to show Kay the stone wall I'd helped build, and the beautiful scenic area we were in. And if you haven't read why we slog our guts out building rock walls in Namibia, we do it to stop desert elephants breaking down the village water installations.
http://www.desertelephant.org/

Just pulling into Omaruru, and a flat tyre! Wouldn't that rock you?! First day on sealed roads and a flattie. With a rental that won't accept repaired tyres, we were up for a replacement. To top it off, no replacements in town, meaning couriering one up from Windhoek: where we were going, you need to get a flat tyre repaired straight away. Oh well, $350...just money after all.

Omaruru Guesthouse is huge, plenty of rooms and a wonderfully friendly host. On the morning of our departure she called her staff out to the doorsteps and their choir sang us goodbye with a traditional Damara song.

 She observed that I was familiar with the tune, having heard it on a Mascato Coastal Children's Choir CD I bought on our first Namibian Visit last year, so we were able to discuss to her delight Damara music.  She presented me with a CD of Windhoek's own Cantare Audire Choir, a collection of classical European and African works.

Then we headed off to Brandberg White Lady Lodge, set in a beautiful rocky area beside the Ugab at the east base of Brandberg Mountain.

Brandberg White Lady Lodge. Note the Springbok in background.

 We parked in the White Lady car park next to an Elephant-Human Relations Aid vehicle.EHRA are the organisers of the rock wall building project I had worked on 12 months before. So I was able to walk up to a stunned Johannes Haasbroek, director of EHRA, and shake his hand!  Easily explained as they'd popped along from EHRA's base camp futher along the Ugab to watch the Tri-Nations Rugby at the only TV in the area!


Another coincidence was to quickly follow. As we are checking in, a housekeeper lady walks past us singing the very same song we'd been farewelled by at Omaruru Guest House!
The omens were good for us that day.


Next morning we did the White Lady game drive along the dry Ugab riverbed, seeking out the desert ellies who had passed through our lodge camp that night. Footprints showed a lone bull elle circled around our chalet in the night. Old friend Voortrekker come to say hello I would like to think.

The area is spectacular, and viewing the riverine and kopie landscapes would have been enough but finally seeing my old friends the desert ellies was just the icing.

First night in our individual stone chalets at White Lady, we heard singing off in the background. We closed our eyes and drifted off to sleep with the serenade of traditional native singing. On the game drive I asked a local about that. He said an overland tour was in the tent camp area, and the staff put on a performance. I asked him if he would arrange one for the dining room that night. OK, done!
That night at dining, guests were getting up to leave after desserts, and I motioned to many to remain seated and stay. Quizzical looks I got in return. Eventually all the cooks, barmen and waiters got together and then began their performance to everyone's delight. Incidentally, once again many of the traditional songs they sang so well were on my Mascato Cds. After the performance they asked how I was so familiar with some of their songs and we were able to discuss Mascato, of which they were aware as one barman's brother had been a member recently.

Enjoy Mascato Youth Choir here-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zidw-LTWw3Q&feature=related
And in this clip,listen to this guy singing his heart out.Just wonderful.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mONrlkCg5S0&feature=related

On leaving Brandberg White Lady we travelled via the C35 across the Ugab and then veered off to visit EHRA's Base Camp. Now I'd spent a 2 weeks stay there in July 2008, but this time as I drove in to show Kay the camp, I finally took in just how beautiful the area was, and the secret area that the base camp is set it. On arrival there was only one local around cleaning up. I showed Kay through the camp where I’d spent some great times, and she was overawed at the setting, and said to me the camp and it's surroundings were just 'stunning'!
It was good to go back to fully appreciate the area.

And we'd also called in to chat with the locals at the village I'd helped build a rock wall - still standing by the way. The photo album of our building team, and villagers was greatly appreciated when I presented it to them.

So off via Khorixas to Kamanjab where we visited the Himbas, and you will read about that later.
Our final morning we loaded up the 6cd changer in the x-trail with 5 CDs I had bought in Namibia and South Africa, punched 'Mix" and commenced our final drive in Namibia...and the realisation that we were finally heading home after 6 weeks hit us!

It seemed as if Africa's wildlife was out lined up along the road to wish us farewell as we drove by with the various beats of African music blaring out; giraffe stood like towering statues, warthogs dashed across the road, zebra pranced along, springbok and duiker gambolled across our path. Sadly a green snake had slithered too far out and the vehicle in front had got him.

So it's sad to finally leave such a beautiful country. But we haven't just got great  memories and photos of it, we've got the music, and that will be playing in my workshop for many months to come.

Incidentally, after saying to ourselves that it WAS going to be our last visit to that part of Africa (as Ethiopia is next...) Kay is now saying...."We've got to go back. I can't stop dreaming of being in Africa!"

Africa kind of grabs you somehow....

Goodbye to Namibia.Or is it?

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My Weekly Desktop Photo.1.

Having three computers, home, work, and Kay now has her very own laptop,(because otherwise she'd never get on here to pay the bills, keep the IRD happy,or pay the GST!)it's fun to load up a new screen background from the huge range of trip photos.And they're changed around as the mood fancies, and thoughts wander to places I'm longing to get back to.Each photo has it's own story.And as they change, let's go on an adventure together.
This week it's a shot of two cheetah, taken at Naan Kuse, wildlife sanctuary, Namibia Aug 2009.Where Kay and I met up with our daughters, Emma and Elissa to volunteer for 2 weeks aiding in their wildlife conservation schemes.This is what greets me, gladdens my heart, and brings back rich memories whenever I'm at the screen,this week.

 

Lucky and Ayla.

Lucky was brought to Naankuse ,Namibian Wildlife Sanctuary in January 2009, but sadly had a wound that finally meant amputation of a leg.But she's adapted to her tripod status, and now lives a great life being mother to any orphaned cheetah cub brought to the sanctuary.I cannot but admire this cat for her willingness to take on the surrogate mother role to the now 3 orphan cheetah cubs,despite her own tragic loss of a limb.She's an inspiration to us all, reminding us that no matter how bad life is for us,whatever bricks have been thrown, or how low we are, there is always hope, always someone worse off that needs our help.

http://www.ecotourism-namibia.com/volunteer/volun_animal.html
If you follow that link , read about Aiko, Kiki & Aisha , the cheetahs that inspired this poem-
http://holesinmysoles.blogspot.com/search/label/Africa%20again%202009
Cheetahs have such a hard life in Southern Africa.Farming and fencing has interferred with their natural prey numbers, so a hungry cheetah may then take down a farmer's sheep or a calf.For that, a farmer  viewing them as vermin ,won't hesitate to destroy them any way he can.Thankfully, often the cubs may be taken into a sanctuary.But cheetah numbers throughout Africa are declining under these pressures.
There's a glimmer of hope though, that sanctuaries such as NaanKuse, or Africat, Cheetah Conservation fund and others are pioneering.Read about the excellent new initiatives here-
http://www.cheetah.org/?nd=guarding_dog_program
And attitudes are changing among many farmers.Our driver was chatting of how he runs a small holding.And now he runs herds of springbok, and kudu as food buffers between the leopard and cheetahs and his sheep and cattle.Whereas once those grazers would have been shot out as competitors for sparse pasture, they are now valued ,and can also be farmed for the buoyant biltong industry.
Those farmers and hunters who would once have shot out the game,today are the most ardent protectors of the same.Times change,attitudes change,farmers' prejudices and practices change or they adopt new ways.
Perhaps there may be a future for Africa's big cats.Especially if we all help.

It's an amazing feeling stroking a tame cheetah,sitting beside you purring away like any old hearthside moggie.
Some say these cats are more like a dog, once tamed they remain faithfull like a dog.And not having retractable claws as a cat would.

It would be better of course, to have these cheetah roaming free.And later  on we'll talk about Naankuse's Rehabilitation and Release program for large cats,leopard,cheetah, and caracal.

My Weekly Desktop Photo.1.

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"God Is watching over us"

“ My trip review of Namibian Wildlife Sanctuary, N/a'an Kuse'. ”

I was wandering

I was wandering alone

Longing for roots of my own

There was no place

No place where I could roam

Is there no one could give me a home?

N/a'an Kuse', N/a'an Kuse'.

I was shaking

I was shaking with fear

Caught in this wire poacher's snare

I was screaming

I was screaming out in despair

Is there no one, no one to hear?

N/a'an Kuse', N/a'an Kuse'

God is watching over us.

I was praying

I was praying today

Please keep all my children safe

For taking that calf for my family,

My life's forfeit, we're just vermin anyway.

N/a'an Kuse', N/a'an kuse'

God is watching over

God is watching over us

Namibian Wildlife Sanctuary.

First verse is written from the perspective of lions who cannot return to Etosha as the park reckons they(5 ) will upset pride dynamics in the park. These orphans, now fully grown, are living in huge enclosures at Na'an Kuse, as an alternative to them being shot. Why is there no room in the wild for them?

Second verse is for Big Mama, a baboon. She had already lost a foot in a poacher's wire snare. When she came to the Sanctuary, Mama had another snare partially embedded in her flesh around her belly. Soon after she arrived, she gave birth. Now Big Mama is undisputed boss of all 17 baboons. She's an amazing creature.

Third verse reflects the feelings of a cheetah mother, whose 4 cubs were caught in a farmer's trap. He incarcerated them in a pit under the trap, for 4 days hoping to lure her back in to kill her. When 1 died of pneumonia, he relented, rang the sanctuary and they came into their care. But mother cheetah had to abandon her cubs, or be shot!

Hope you guys like it. First poem I have ever written.
Sorry about no pictures of Big Mama, the baboon. We were too scared to even point a camera her way!

But a beautiful animal, completely in control of the baboon troop. And easy with us, as long as we didn't mess her around. She's an awesome creature, and I grew to admire her.

 N/A’AN KU SÊ  is Bushman for "God is watching over us."
http://www.naankuse.com/

"God Is watching over us"

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