Tsunami Blessing 4:The Blessing of Enlightenment..

Refer here for-
Part 1  Part 2   Part 3


Travelling  from Pondicherry down the coast of Tamil Nadu, I can remember that our view from the high seats in our Dragoman truck allowed us commanding views over the low undulating countryside. It was incredible to see an unbroken line  of wreckage marking the high tide line of the tsunami's penetration! We were miles inland at times, but still that line was so evident.And here and there villagers picking through the flotsam. Lots of plastic rigged up as shelters, as houses had been completely obliterated.
We  watched these scenes, but our comprehension of such devastation was lacking. It was almost like watching it on video, it was so removed for us. We could go home tomorrow to our warm homes, and be greeted by loved ones.How can you take in that these people were searching for their family members amongst their home's rubble?
Somewhere along the way down to the bottom tip of India, we bush camped. Dragoman trips will have a mix of nights bush camping, and accommodated.We'd hit the jackpot in Pondicherry because the tour kitty was enough to cover the cheap hotel rate we negotiated there, rather than camping at the beach camp.Didn't want to be near the beach anyway.

So it was time to bush camp.Somewhere secluded, quiet, away from the road. Growing dark and still no suitable site but a turn off the main road took us down into what appeared to be an old marble quarry. No signage, just old shattered marble blocks and tailings, and a km away cliffs of pure marble. And a quiet, reasonably flat area, and it was out  and up with our  the cook tent followed  by our two person ones. Looked a very safe area to get a good nights sleep.
Then BOOM! BOOM! BOOM! Huge explosions rip through the night so frikken close! Our deserted quarry was not so deserted! It was deserted because they had blasting operations that night! We were lucky we hadn't driven further in. But this was India, with it's very stringent work place rules, barriers, hard hats, DANGER signs , gate security guards and roadblocks....Yeah right!?
Blasts went on for a while , and carried on a wee bit longer, but from our camp.  James and the lads got out all their huge firework bangers they had left over from New Years and started answering them back. Boom, boom boom! Hilarious. And probably a bit confusing to the quarry men as they would have been  in a bit of consternation wondering who planted that  dynamite in the wrong place!

Cape Comorin is the furthermost tip of India, where you can paddle in the waters where the Indian Ocean, and Arabian Sea meet the Bay of Bengal.Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial occupies an island around 500 metres offshore.A place of pilgrimage a short boat ride away.
As we dabbled our feet, a local guy came over and warned us not to do that.Thinking we were breaking some religious custom we asked him why.
"Because the water may get you" he gravely said."When the water went away, people started walking to the island, thinking prayers had turned back the waters. Then the wave came and over 300 were swept away!"
300 lives lost In one spot!What a tragedy.I think most of us by this time were very affected by witnessing the aftermath of the Boxing Day tsunami and it certainly added a whole new dimension to our overlanding tour.

So it was a relief to pull into Kovalam Beach and spend a few days enjoying sun, sand and sea.Here we just blobbed .It's become a very popular alternative to over touristed Goa .Smaller,less developed but still a wide range of accommodation from backpackers to good quality hotels right along the beach. And the beachfront restaurants are packed and ready to party at night.But dining on prawn fried rice was not the smartest move that evening.I learnt next day that the tsunami had scared away all the fish,local fishermen were catching nothing, and seafood was being trucked in unrefrigerated for the restaurants.3 days later, still violently ill it was off to a medical centre for antibiotics! The joys of India....

India is a vibrant, colorful,visually rich country, with layers of history. And a multitude of castes,beliefs and religions that sometimes tear communities apart. But it's also rich in spirituality, possibly the country that is most so, and many foreigners travel there seeking enlightenment, and pathways to that inner vision. I never really paid too much heed to that, and I certainly didn't travel to India on a similar quest. But sometimes you can't avoid it.Or more correctly,as in my case, it just reaches out and gently touches you, and leaves it's mark upon you.
Back in  Mahabalipuram  I had taken the time, during our never arriving lunch at a restaurant ,to wander down the little main shopping street where I had spied a sandal maker's shop.Being a shoemaker myself, the simpatico arises and I have just got to have a chat and admire another craftsman's work. And I also appreciate that leather workers in India are of the lowest castes, being handlers of dead animal skins. Over the centuries only the very lowest castes would skin dead animals and tan the hides. Untouchables. My thoughts were of how this sandal maker would be faring, as the aid , when it did finally reach this community, would trickle down from the top. And I was also aware that the  owner had just thrown a beggar out of our restaurant a few minutes ago, but that beggar was still hanging morosely around. These people would be last in the feeding chain, if there was one.
I didn't need to buy any sandals, I make my own. But I did buy, and I didn't haggle too hard for them either, just enough to go through the ritual and enable my sandal maker his dignity in knowing he could sell his creation. And he with great honesty and pride proffered me change for the notes I'd tendered. So gesturing to the beggar down the street, I asked him to give him all my change, enough perhaps for a few meals. The sandal maker ran up to the beggar, a joyful exchange took place, and a few others got involved, all looking at me.Then the sandal maker came back and in his poor English said how good I was.
"Today I can feed my family after 3 days! And Sir, you have fed another family."
Then this sandal maker placed his hand close to my forehead,closed his eyes, and started muttering.As he did that, a warm glow seemed to register in my head. I'm not too sure what was going on. I just thought I'd handed out a few dollars to buy something to ensure money got to where it was needed without actually handing out and encouraging begging.
"I have blessed you Sir.You are blessed with all my being!"
That was my Tsunami Blessing.
A simple action, an insignificant event, and over and done with in a minute. No big deal. But upon me, it left a bigger impression than a tsunami. It's probably the single most remembered event in my travelling experience.(Apart from elephants jumping out at us!) It truly was a blessing. Because whenever I look back upon how our travel has changed, that moment triggered it.
I somehow feel that that sandal maker gave me something far greater than just a cheap pair of sandals in return for my few dollars.

And now we plan our travels differently.Our return to India 2 years later was to visit a child we sponsor through Childfund. Read about our village experience here-The Village Pump! On that visit, the genuine hospitality of the villagers was so humbling. And since then we've sought out volunteer projects with a mix of wildlife conservation and work with village communities. In a few days time we leave to visit another child we sponsor in Ethiopia.So for us, the Tsunami experience had a deep effect on us and on our expectations from our travels.It's more about people and their lives or giving back in conservation projects.

So for all you other travellers, have you ever had a moment on the road where something made you stop and think about what you are doing? What are you seeking? What impact are you having on the people and places you visit? Was it a sudden kick in the pants that made you stop and consider your actions? Or has it been a cumulative gaining of experiences and wisdom that slowly came upon you,and made you question ?
Or do you  even question your impact as a traveller upon the communities that allow you entry?

Tsunami Blessing 4:The Blessing of Enlightenment..

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Weekly desktop photo.5 Real Africa!

My wallpaper photo this week is The Big Tusker !

Can you imagine being so close to that? Just a few metres away. Your life in the balance of that huge creature's whim. But it was strange not being afraid, just admiring that huge bull ele, and feeling such delight, such amazement at being so close to such a beautiful creature. The largest land animal of all.
And we had been much closer...just minutes before! And the amazing thing is, that we never saw it!

How can you not see an animal that big, even when you drive past him, as near as 2 metres away? But in Namibia I had seen how invisible they are. You can be searching all over the landscape, but you won't see them....until they move! Stock still their legs to the inexperienced eye look just like tree trunks. The body covered in dirt from their dust bath will perfectly camouflage them into the bush and colour of the landscape. And that's why they can be so dangerous. Because you can drive up so close before you see them, and they may interpret your approach as a hostile threat, and react.

And now we had driven right up and past one, by the width of the thickness of a bush!

 This was on our private safari, with Russell Frankish of Green Bushpig Safaris. I had started off relating our tales of this so exciting time on our safari. Read here- african-safari-with-greenbushpig.html

and had told of our time at Imbambala Resort at Loskop Dam and our rhino experience. So a few days later on we had made our way down to spend 3 days on safari through Kruger National Park. Kruger is a jewel in the tiara of South Africa's National Parks. There are many parks, each having their own great features, and while most one-time tourists will head to Kruger, do research the others. And the best place to do that, is a wonderful forum with every bit of info you would want to know here at SA's National Parks website and forum-www.sanparks.org/forums

The members there are tops in offering advice, welcoming you, and putting up all sorts of information. I love browsing their forums.

 Getting back to our time at Kruger, We stopped for lunch at Skukuza at the restaurants and shops there. Buying our lunch and looking around for seats, we wondered why, in the heat of midday, no one sat right in under the shade of the open sided sheltered area. But you only had to look up and see why! Bats! Bats in the ceiling rafters. Rather cute...but you don't want them pooping in your flat white, or mayonnaising your salad! So everyone sat just outside in that outer ring of confidence.

 Now most people want to check off the Big 5: Elephant, lion, buffalo, rhino, leopard are what most want to see. But there are so many other wonderful animals to see. And my favourite experience was seeing quite unexpectedly,was a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills walk right out of the scrub and across our path. These are huge birds, the male resplendent in his glowing red wattle and huge beak, his partner quite drab in comparison, around the size of a turkey.

 Isn't he beautiful! That bird wandered right up to our car. My window was down, and I'm poking my Canon out the window and that cheeky bird pecked my camera!

Then he went on to pose and adopt various positions as if he was a model, attempting to get his best posture and profile to the camera. Someone must have trained him well.

Sadly his friendly nature may be his undoing. They're high potency fetish material for native witch doctor practices, muti it's called. And numbers are declining rapidly.

You may notice blackish specks on his wattle, they're ticks.

 

A click on any of the photos will bring them up on your screen full size.

There's a lot of wildlife in Kruger, and sometimes it seems that if it's not standing posing for your camera it's coming straight at you! That ele in the pic just above gave us a warning that we better not come any closer. She was outrider, or flank guard for her herd. We needed to drive down that road but she was on one side, the herd on the other. The last thing you do, is drive between them. Foolhardy. You just don't do it! That is the zone she is guarding.

Well, a full on warning charge happened later on. As we were driving down another dirt track, we spotted a small herd of elephants to our left down in a shallow gully, with a car on the road watching them. For some reason Russell pulls up beside the car, not behind, luckily.... because at that moment to our right, we hear a high pitched trumpet of panic which could only be a baby elephant hollering for it's mum! That baby had been slack in crossing the road with the herd, had finally woken up to the fact it was alone, and had sounded off in panic. Suddenly the car beside us shot backwards at full speed! Had we been behind they'd have come through our windscreen. The female driver was white faced, knuckles clenched around the wheel in panic, as a huge elephant charged straight up the bank at her! And as she reversed so quickly out of the way, that left us in the path of that onrushing eles wrath! Ears out wide, trunk high, she came at us! Slowly Russell reversed a few metres, and the elephant carried on past our front towards her panicked baby. Phew!

To his credit, Russell kept his cool, and calmly and slowly reversed out of the situation. And we often think back to that experience and remember that the excitement of an unexpected happening like that, is real Africa. There is an underlying tension wherever you go that no other place can offer.

That's what draws us back.

Shortly after, we drove down a very narrow dirt track, and passed a thick high bush where the road dead ended. Russell reversed and turned around then drove the car over a fallen branch. Strange, that we hadn't seen that before...where had that come from? Now you're not supposed to get out of your vehicle in any National Park for the very reason we're about to experience....that underlying tension may just snap unexpectedly!

Russell stopped and said he'd better get out just to see if there was any damage.

"Nope, no damage.....uh oh .... " Then very quietly Russell says for us both to just freeze and not do anything.

"I'm just going to get back into the car and we will all just sit quietly.There's a big elephant in the bush beside us! I can see his tusk poking through the bush!"

We looked up just as a branch snaped and the bush was shaken.Thiswas happening just a few metres away. We'd driven past that bush, and it brushed the side of the car!

Then the elephant took a few steps through the bushes and this monstrous head and huge tusks came into view. Kay said later she had never been so frightened before. It was a moment that locks into your mind forever. Even I was unedged and it takes a lot to rattle me. This was so unexpected.

So there we were, so close to a massive bull elephant, and we'd never seen it. We even had the best guide in all of Southern Africa with us. But I guess he was too busy looking at twigs under the car. Must have been distracted I suppose.

"We're just going to sit here quietly."Russell whispered."That bull knows we're here.He's comfortable with us.If he wasn't he'd have let us know by now. Elephants have got used to cars in Kruger, but you never know."

"Problems can arise in a situation like this where a tourist reacts to spotting that bull by slamming the door, revving up, and screaming out of the way.And that could provoke a real charge by the elephant."

We moved away slowly a few more metres, and then the bull walked right out into full view. Magnificent. So huge, and yet so peaceful and quiet, and so comfortable with us and the car.

That was just one of those unforgettable moments

And that was real Africa!

    

As I said, this guy was a real poser. Top male model of the year SA 2009!

Weekly desktop photo.5 Real Africa!

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So You've Thought About Volunteering? 2

Let's follow up what Norbert has to say here-So you've thought about volunteering I'll add further to some of the questions Norbert from Globotreks has raised, based on my research and actual hands on experience.I got interested in voluntourism as a result of an incident that I'll be relating in the Tsunami Blessing series I have guest posted on Globotreks.So you'll have to go read about that there, when it appears!  I have researched a few organisations, and projects, been on a couple of projects, and followed some of them over recent years so hopefully my advice can help others.

How to Select a Good Volunteering Program.
Only one answer here-RESEARCH! Get to know as much as you can about any that you are interested in.Google them.Get on Facebook and Youtube and do a search for them. Ask about them on travel forums, such as Tripadvisor.Then bookmark the site and keep checking for new info.And ask any questions there.You'll hopefully get past volunteers responding with their experiences.
Verify which organisations are marketing  projects, and which are actual projects.Then contact the project directly. But only after you have researched it thoroughly and had other first hand referrals about it,and then book directly.You'll save heaps, and know that what you pay goes directly to the project.

Why should you volunteer?
Covered very well by Norbert.But I would add that it is also about passing on your knowledge and skills to others.This is where you can leave a bit of yourself behind that can make a big difference in the lives of others.Teaching children in South America or Africa is great, but pass on what you know to other local teachers also,and they can then forever pass that on.
Another point : wildlife conservation volunteer projects are great on your resume', if you're studying any of the environmental sciences.You've got out there and shown a prospective employer you can do the hard work in a far off place with few facilities.You're not another desk jockey!

Why should you pay to volunteer?
Well covered by Norbert.I can  add that some projects use this to sort out those who are really dedicated and intent on contributing.After all, that money you paid is a big incentive to go the distance, and not pull out prematurely because you didn't like it, and you paid nothing so you can chuck it in easy.

For a struggling project with no income,just feeding and lodging you is a major expense to them.Expect to pay.But check thoroughly what your money is being used for.


How much are you willing to pay?
Comes back to your judgement and ability to pay.

What do you want to do?
You may be surprised how your volunteer experience helps develop your potential.And it can really push out that horizon of possibilities! It creates more options in your life.

How much time do you have?
I know of women in their 60's working their way around wildlife and community volunteer projects in Africa,enjoying up to 6 months stretch at a time.And High School kids using their 2 week school break.
 
 What do former volunteers say?
This is important.That first hand information is what you are seeking straight from them.Get on Youtube,Facebook, or travel forums such as Tripadvisor.And check out Gap Adventure's  wateringhole  travel forum.Gap Adventures operate voluntours,and you can also find first hand information at Planeterra here-www.planeterra.org/.
And here you can read a comment from Poppy who has volunteered in Namibia this year.Comment number 8-volunteering                                                    

What do the projects say?
Here you will find one project's view of volunteers.
Why volunteers matter!

What will you learn?
You'll learn not only about other cultures and people, you'll learn about yourself.Some projects will challenge you, your comfort level, your beliefs, and how you work with other people.
In my 2 weeks in the Damarland desert I learnt more about Namibia and it's people and history, sitting around a campfire chatting with a local guy, than I did on the 2 week tour we did previously.I heard his stories of his growing up.He entertained us with tales of his life, his community problems, and his adventures as a guerrilla fighter in their war for Independence.And he shared his hopes for his people.

Organisations I have volunteered with.
Elephant Human-Relations Aid, Namibia.  http://www.desertelephant.org/
Naankuse,    Namibia.            http://www.naankuse.com/

Organisations I have researched.
Global Volunteer Network.   http://www.globalvolunteernetwork.org/
Biospheres Expeditions    http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/
Gap Adventures/Planetera    http://www.planeterra.org/pages/voluntours/
Enkosiniecoexperience     http://www.enkosiniecoexperience.com/

Each of the above organisations are reputable and offer good value experiences.Check over their offerings thoroughly.You will find they will have a mix of their own projects, and may market others.This works in favour of many projects that just don't have their own skills or resources to undertake their own international marketing.

My next volunteer experience will be back to EHRA and the desert elephants,next May, and if anyone wants to come, give me a yell.I just might have  a camera team with me!Shush.Big secret still..........

So You've Thought About Volunteering? 2

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Tips for getting paid for writing stuff!

Get paid for published articles you submit to the following sites.You may just have the knowledge, the experience and the insightfulness to get your work published.Hey, you've got to be good though! But each of us has a unique skill,knowledge or an experience no one else has got.Write about it.Submit it.
Who knows, there could be a future in it for you!

Paid writing websites.

http://writers.bootsnall.com/

http://matadortravel.com/bounty-board/current

http://www.flightster.com/2010/07/20/how-to-become-the-next-paid-writer-for-the-flightster-blog

http://www.backpackerherald.com/writers-wanted/

http://www.articlesbase.com/

http://www.colorfultimes.com/submissions/


Now bookmark these sites.Get intimate with each of them.They all have their way of doing things.Some will bulletin board a list of subjects they want articles submitted for.Others you can write upon a subject,have it listed, and if another party likes it enough to want to use it, then you get paid.
Keep browsing them as now and again a subject will be posted that you have the unique insight to go for!
Contact them.Show them your website blogs.Submit an article on any subject.If you live in some favoured travel destination and really know the area or country, make contact with them and suggest a subject to them.You never know, you may just make the editors turn their minds in that direction.
And keep plugging away.You'll be improving your skills,honing your insightfulness,making contacts,creating little ripples that may turn into a wave....or a tsunami!Get people to notice you and your style and area of expertise.
You've got your own blogsite up and running.Well you have haven't you?Better get on and set one up.Because some editors may want to look your work over.You've got to show them the quality of your work, it's uniqueness, it's fresh angle on a subject, and it's appeal ability.

Try these-
https://www.blogger.com/start

http://wordpress.org/

Set up your own blogsite free.Free website design, and free hosting.But there's a wee bit to learn.Just remember, take a step at a time.

Then get writing.
Spend time reading other blogs.Check out their style and format.Some subjects suit an essay approach.Others get more notice by bullet points or the ''10 tips on surviving ....!" style.Pitch the format to the subject and your audience.
I hope this is enough to inspire you.!


But remember, it's fun!

Tips for getting paid for writing stuff!

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So You've Thought About Volunteering Overseas?

I'd like to introduce our guest writer Norbert Figueroa from GloboTreks Travels .We've been chatting about volunteering as he's read a few posts of our volunteer experiences I've written about on this site.
So we both felt there is real value to our readers if we explore this subject in depth.And I'll follow up Norbert's post later on with thoughts and advice from our 'hands on ' experiences.Norbert poses some very relevant questions and offers great answers.Please, chip in and post any comments and questions.And if you have any voluntour experiences yourself, we'd really like to read them.

How to Select a Good Volunteering Program
Voluntourism (Volunteer Tourism) is an ever-increasing travel niche that has introduced itself into the travel mainstream –and with a good purpose. Volunteer travel is a way to explore the world while helping a community, a wildlife cause, a non-profit organization, or others in need. It is a way to give a hand, give resources, and give hope to people and places you never knew, but that you’ll never forget once you’re back at home.
When looking for a volunteer host or program there are a couple questions you should ask yourself in order to make an informed decision. This selection process will be beneficial for you and for your cause because, in the end, the resources will be highly focused and productive. Here are some of the questions to consider when searching for a volunteer program.

Why should you volunteer?
Your assistance as a volunteer benefits a given program or cause and helps them realize their goals or at least make them more achievable by being part of an ongoing effort.

Volunteering is also a way to enrich yourself in many aspects like gaining new skills, learning a new language, and others. It helps enhance your resume and your career as well. If you’re still in school, it opens more possibilities for scholarships and financial aid to further your education. But even more important, it fulfills your need to help others.

Why should you pay to volunteer?
Most service organizations are non-profits and they only receive funding through donations, memberships, and grants. Your payment will help cover costs like business expenses, local staff, host families, food, orientation and training, supplies, airport pick up and drop off, manuals, etc.
Prices vary drastically among different programs, from only $20 per week to $1000+ per week. Make sure you verify what is included in your total capital contribution. But in the end, all or a portion of your payment will create a positive impact in a local family or individuals.

How much are you willing to pay?
Following the previous question, you should establish how much you consider your volunteer work is worth. You will find different organizations with different price settings performing the same tasks. Evaluate their prices (your capital donation), and see which one does the best benefit under your price range.

What do you want to do?
Volunteering provides many work opportunities that include: animal care and rescue, education, health, construction, local communities aid and development, and others.
Make sure you know what is involved in the program and what will be your role. You should feel comfortable with your roles as a volunteer in order to give your best (the biggest benefit) to your cause.

Where do you want to go?
As a traveler this is probably one of the first questions you should ask yourself. Decide a destination of your interest and search what volunteer programs they have available. Then out of those programs available, narrow it down to the programs and causes that appeals to you.
Another method can be by knowing a specific cause you want to contribute to and by searching locations around the world that address that cause.

How much time do you have?
Time is a big factor when volunteering. Your volunteer time frame can vary from a week to a year and more. Be aware that you might introduce yourself to a project at the beginning, middle, or end of its timeline. Most volunteer opportunities are ongoing causes that have been active for some time and will continue indefinitely or until achieving their goal. Depending on the time you contribute to your cause, you might be able to see the direct impact of your work. If not, do not get discouraged. Volunteer programs have long-term projects that are accomplished through the help of many short-term participants.

Do you agree with the organization’s mission?
Do your research about the organization that you’re interested in volunteering with. Read their mission and make sure that their working philosophy aligns with your goals and interest. Study their previous projects, organization history, goals achieved, and others.
See how open they are about their funding. Most organizations have it on display on their web page or facilitate it to you when asked. Look at their spending breakdown and see how your volunteer fee is allotted.

If you feel comfortable with the above information, then feel free to go ahead with that organization; if not, then move along, as there are other organizations that can use your help.

What do former volunteers say?
Social approval and word of mouth is one of the best ways to know how positive will be your contribution in a given project. Some volunteer organizations have forums that connect volunteers and help them share their thoughts and opinions. Forums are also a great way to get in touch with other volunteers that might be working on your same project. Google for articles and blog posts about the organization and projects. Connect with them through social networks to have a more interactive relationship even before you start your volunteer work.

A good directory that can help you select volunteer programs around the world is http://www.volunteerabroad.com/. It helps you narrow down your search by type of work, world region, country, and duration.

As you can see, voluntourism is a great way to travel and get to know new places while helping others on the way. No matter how big or small your contribution might be, make sure that it is focused in something you are passionate about and that are willing to give your time and effort to improve it. In the end, you will have a gratifying experience and the satisfaction of having made a positive impact in the world.


Norbert
Writer and Editor of GloboTreks Travels
Travel Blog URL: http://www.globotreks.com/
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So You've Thought About Volunteering Overseas?

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Tsunami Blessing:Part 3.The Evil Sea!

Part 1-here
Part 2-here
Dec 27-1st Jan 05
Rather a sombre meet up that evening, for the start day with the Dragoman tour.Great mix of people.And more importantly still a tour! That truck had travelled down from Kathmandu and bush camped north of Chennai, right on the beach at a coastal village the night before.And packed up and headed off on the morning of the 26th around 7am and the Tsunami's first wave had rolled ashore just 2 hours later! Was that village obliterated? Were the children they had played with that night swept away? What would have happened if we hadn't left so early?!
I can recall the group asking those questions.What answers could be given?

As we listened to their conversation,these were a few of the comments made about their last night's tenting on that beach.
And James was talking about how he had been swimming in the sea that evening and walking back to the group and had greeted them saying "That sea feels evil tonight!" Why would he have said that?

And the biggie question now facing our tour was should our tour go ahead,or be diverted elsewhere.No one wanted to be gawking tourists travelling through such devastation, as our tour was going through a lot of the areas hit by the tsunami.
 So Babs, our tour leader,co- driver and general party animal rang ahead to a few of the hotels we were to stay at.Their message was imploring us not to cancel but to come, because all other tourists had skedaddled.Without tourists they would not earn any income.All their workers would have to be laid off.They needed us to continue.They needed our dollars!

Our Dragoman tour proceeded the following morning down to Mahabalipuram, our first night's stay.A most beautiful city, casuarina lined sandy shores, ancient temples and historical architecture.Here we found our hotel a km from the beach had been washed out.11 bodies had been found in the grounds.Our lodgings were transferred to another wing which had been mildly affected.We couldn't help noticing as we drove up the huge amounts of bedding, sheets, towels which had been recently washed drying on the bushes and trees lining the hotel driveway.And the cleaning up effort, all physical work being done by the women, while the men chose to exercise self importance of pointing out to the women where they should place the planks they were carrying! Well India is a very male dominated society  after all.

Mahabalipuram is a wonder of temples and sights.

The rock cut caves and temples cut from a single rock are awesome.And wandering along the road where stonemasons and artists show off their art is fascinating.I could have carted that statue home! I think she fell in love with me.Just look at that expression in her eyes! Pure wanton lust for me!

The Shore Temple  is one of the oldest of the south Indian Temples which were constructed in

the Dravidian style.The tsunami had badly damaged this World Heritage listed site and we were unable to visit as it was fenced off.We walked past a line of market stalls all trashed by the tsunami.Here once again the women cleaning and sweeping up,or shovelling mud out of their smashed up ramshackle shops, while men forcefully directed their efforts by telling them what to do!

Many of our group found a restaurant that had managed to reopen and were dragged in by the owner and seated for our midday lunch.An hour and a half later still no food served,(during this time I'd been off to do a bit of shopping down the street ) so I stepped to the rear of the restaurant to find out what the problem was.To see our man cooking all our various dishes over a single camp gas burner!The kitchen had been destroyed.And all his staff had gone to their wrecked village to help their families.He was on his own!

Next stop was Pondicherry that old coastal French territory (up until 1954) that still retains much of that Gallic charm and architecture.Beautiful colourful markets, flowers everywhere, rangoli (the geometrically intricate welcoming patterns on the pavements outside every house) and temples!

And panic! Absolute mayhem, and we got caught right up in it!.

Our huge overland truck inching it's way through such narrow crowded streets with just inches each side to spare, 5 blocks deep down this narrow road when from the direction of the beach crowds of people come running towards and past us.Some in panic.Others carrying toddlers or household goods.Waving and yelling.All heading the opposite way we were going....and we couldn't turn!

"Wave coming !"we finally hear someone yelling in English! "Wave Coming!"

The evil sea was coming again!Another tsunami!

Well, give Babs our leader and driver her due.Coolly she backed that truck up 5 blocks through those narrow streets.While we sat there wondering should we be running with the crowd.?..or sit there showing outer calm, no sign of fear, because that's what we foreign colonials would have done in the past? Carry on regardless, resolute, setting the stiff upper lip "What ho chum!Old boy!"

I think we all experienced a major bit of panic then, but sat there and stayed with the truck....Actually there was no way we could open the bloody door and run anyway!

We were later to find out the State Government had issued a tsunami warning which had turned out to be a false alarm.

But for us , the upshot was it cleared the last of the patrons out of all the downtown hotels!So when we turn up, and were booking into this cheap, basic concrete bunker of a backpacker type 2 star hotel,managers from hotels up and down the street were following us in, begging "You stay my hotel Sirs.You stay ,I give you cheapest rate!"

An hour later we had the best 5 star hotel in the street to ourselves.

And a few days layover to really explore the town, it's vibrant markets, walk the streets and admire the historical buildings.And to party hard for New Years Eve,...secretly.Because the State Government had decreed that no celebrations would be held for New Year.No parties.No alcohol to be served.Restaurants and hotels to be closed early.There were to be no incidents of foreigners drunk and partying, while India mourned it's dead!

We respected that.

But that night all the doors of our hotel were locked, blinds drawn,lights lowered,non house guests kicked out,....and Dragoman held it's New Year Eve party!And the hotel loved us because we were spending that money they desperately needed.

 

Throughout this tour,faced with the effect of the devastation on people's lives,it was being clearly exampled just how much people depend on tourist dollars.So we didn't see many other tourists.They had taken off. We had carried on, but very aware that they were having to pull their lives back together.And in this traumatic time,in this country where tourism is so important to a family's going hungry or not,the decision to carry on was the correct one.

What we saw and experienced  has meant a lot of soul searching over our travelling.And has profoundly changed the manner of our travels,and where we go and how we go.Nowadays, we choose places and style of travel wherein we can maximise our interaction with communities.Where we can contribute back.Get involved in projects that have an effect at a local level.Volunteer projects, particularly in wildlife conservation that also work closely with locals at a village level.

So no one has yet commented upon my calling this series, Tsunami Blessing. Why? Because it certainly wasn't for over 300,000 people killed in this huge natural catastrophe!

But there was a blessing.And a very personal blessing.Which unexpectedly touched me deeply.

I'll tell you about that in the final chapter.Stick around.

  

 

 

Tsunami Blessing:Part 3.The Evil Sea!

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Gap Adventures Dunes, Deltas & Falls Discoverer

I have been asked about our trips to Southern Africa so I have revised this report on the trip we did in July 2008 that I had originally posted on GAP Adventures forum.The Wateringhole ,Gap Adventures forum
Trip Report-DAFD Original July 1st 2008.
This is my report on the Cape Town to Windhoek segment of the DAFD tour.I got off in Windhoek and my wife carried on for the full tour through Botswana to Victoria Falls.

My wife and I have travelled on many tours,with many companies, and on comfort or overland styles.But this tour ranks as the best we have ever experienced.An amazing and thoroughly enjoyable time.
It could be a difficult tour, with long drive times, and because of limited accommodation options, there are a few nights where this becomes an issue.And I know GAP have worked hard to address these issues, and improve/refine this tour, and make this now one of the great tours in their African portfolio.
It also takes a very special person as a tour guide to make every moment on this trip interesting,the long drive days pass by so quickly in good conversation, and for the whole tour to be a marvellous learning opportunity..
And it really helps if fellow travellers realise this is adventure travelling and that not everything is going to be as you want or expect.Surprises abound in this type of travel.We were blessed with companions who all showed a positive spirit .

Saasfeld Lodge and our transport awaits!

Accommodation.
Saasfeld Lodge,Kloof Street, Cape Town, the start hotel, was adequate.New owners could do quick tidy up with a little paint here and there.Showers are tricky.But overall, it’s positioning more than made up for it’s shortcomings.It's just a short walk down to town, the cafe's , markets and historical buildings.
Guesthouses (Sir Lamberts Bay Guest House)in Lambert’s Bay made us feel warm and comfy.Really homely.
The Felix Unite Tented chalets at Gariep,on the Orange River were in such a picturesque setting.Loved that place.
Klein Aus Guest Farm dormitory lodge on the 4th night was an experience.And some people will find this an issue.But there is not much alternative accom. In the area, and so we approached this with a ‘go with the flow’ attitude.Even though it was cold and wet, and electricity had shorted out, our group showed a very positive’ Hey, it’s only 1 night.Let’s enjoy it”attitude.
And from there it was all uphill with great lodges, at Nubib Nature Camp, then Namib Desert Lodge.
Dunedin Star ,Swakopmund,clean and reasonable,and well positioned.Great service from helpful staff.
Igowati Lodge,Khorixas,Damaraland was a great nights accom, with many animals and birds wandering the place.

Etosha was tenting at Okaukuejo.Which was great as we were able to position our group close to the main watering hole viewing area.And the temperatures at night had warmed by then.
And where else could you have a honey badger snuffle silently up to you when drowsing off to sleep and give me a big smoochie through the tent canvas!?
Auas Hotel in Windhoek was excellent for positioning , cleanliness, and service.Right near a major shopping mall.



                                                                   
                                                                                          Our Okaukuejo,Etosha campsite.
Transport.
Our 28 seater small bus had total of 18 , plus guide, guide assistant and driver.Which meant it was not too crowded.
With it’s truck chassis, it handled the unsealed roads very well.Not as gutsy, or grunty looking as an overland truck, but a very good comfortable choice for this type of travel.And at Etosha, very suitable for the game drives, as all the game was well in view from the various tracks.We felt no compelling reason to opt for going with the optional game drive safaris.And saw plenty of game, and including 3 lions from our bus.For that time of year, when game is concentrating around the main watering holes,there is not quite the need to take the optional game safaris.Quite different perhaps during wet season where game has to be searched for.Optional game safaris may be the best option then.


Guides/driver.

Our guide Gerhard Schwanepol, was an exceptional person.Always enthusiastic, an excellent conversationalist,a great sense of humour, and extremely well organised.Gutz was right up there as a leader.Enthusing us all with being great adventure people.Who’d have thought anyone could get 18 tourists to lie on the ground at Dead Vlei, spelling out GAP for a photo shoot?
Gerda, our assistant guide was a wonderful , cheerful and enthusiastic person.
Joseph our driver, worked hard on those long drive days.

              Our Gutsy guide!

The water hole at Okaukeujo,Etosha

Game.

Driving up the C35 into Damaraland, we were greeted by a lone cow elephant,browsing a mopani tree by the side of the road.

"Welcome to my territory" she seemed to say."And here is my family"as the rest of the herd crossed the road right in front of us.A 14 strong herd I was to meet up with 8 days later on my EHRA volunteer project I would be joining.This was the main desert elephant herd headed by huge matriarch Mama Africa.
At Etosha, there was an endless stream of game coming into the watering hole at Okaukuejo.Springbok,oryx,impala,kudu,zebra,elephants etc.And at one time there were 6 black rhino in view .
Our game drive in the bus found us observing 2 lionesses over an oryx kill and a male at a nearby water hole.
Heading into the dry season now will see more animals concentrate around the main holes.

General.
For some travellers, this tour with long drive days may be trying.But for myself ,with an interest in Biology, I found that there was never a boring moment.In fact I relished the opportunity to observe the ever changing environment as we travelled up from Cape Town and into true desert areas.Southern Africa has very unique plant life, and it was a joy to observe many plant species we may grow at home as houseplants,flourishing in their natural state.As you travel through various vegetation zones, you will observe how various specie become dominant, then others take over.

Take an interest in how various plants have adapted to survive in these arid areas.From the geometrically beautiful forms of various Aloes, to the spiky candelabra Euphorbias,and the occasional protea, or fields of stonecrops/crassulas.
And for the tours going through Namarqualand in Late Aug/early Sept, you should be enjoying the veld come alive in brilliant colour as wildflowers will be at their best.We were lucky to see only some sparse early showings.

Overall, this trip exceeded our expectations.On the 10th day my wife and I looked at each other and virtually said at the same time-“We’ll have to cancel our North American tour next year , because after this,America is going to be too tame for us!”
The big fear we have now, is how can any future tour ever be as good!?

And for anyone reading this and thinking about an African trip with Gap Adventures,I can fully recommend them.And hey!You can help us adopt a baby elephant here-
http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/
How? Because if you do want to enquire or book your trip with Gap Adventures, click on the Gap Adventures or Discovery Tours advert you see on the right of this page.Any tour booked online which originates through those adverts means this site earns a commission on sales from Gap Adventures.And all that money we earn ,less any tax, we will be donating back to wildlife conservation.
So help us help Africa's wildlife! Doesn't cost you anything extra, but your booking can save an elephant orphan!

And that will put a smile on everybody's face then!

Gap Adventures Dunes, Deltas & Falls Discoverer

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Boxing Day Tsunami Blessing Part 2.

The Day After.Dec 27th 2004
The Driver's Revenge!
Please refer here for -Part 1

The Tsunami had hit the East Coast of India on the morning of our arrival day in Chennai, wreaking destruction all along the  east coastline.Luckily Chennai city itself was spared major damage because it's major port and breakwaters took the brunt, although many ships were damaged and lives lost in the harbour area.We had arrived in the city late that evening, unaware of the event.
The following day was our start day with Dragoman,on an overland truck tour from Chennai down the South East Coast to Cape Comorin and up the west side to Goa and finish at Mumbai.
Dragoman Chennai to Mumbai
It's amazing how blissfully unaware we were that this destruction was having on our friends and family back home.Being in the strike zone you don't get the same perspective of the calamity, that they were getting back home.We were seeing very little evidence,but  TV news gives a roundup of all the worst bits of disaster, and runs them together endlessly.So they were panicking for our survival....we were out sightseeing.They were ringing our travel agent,airlines, embassies etc...we hardly even thought about ringing them or even emailing.We've been told off about that.I think the kids were even thinking how much the inheritance was....
So Kay, Lynley, (our close friend and travel companion) and I met up with another traveller for the Dragoman trip, Patrick( a guy who seems to wander up and down mountains around this world's 7 continents, when not cycling in far off places) and we all hired a taxi for the day and took off sightseeing.Now Indian taxi drivers will try to  rip you off.So we had written down on paper the places we wanted to see.And I'm sure this driver feigns not being an English speaker and takes off with his car full of hijacked passengers.He kept on saying 'Go Mahabalipuram", but we didn't want to go there, because that was first stop on our tour.But half an hour later, we figure we're halfway there and this taxi driver wants to run up a huge taxi bill. So it was a very surly driver that finally turned around after 4 very irate passengers threatened to thump him.Gee you've got to have your wits about you with Indian taxi drivers.Never a word out of him for the rest of our tour, as he sunk into his silence.I'm sure he wanted to get back at us.
But we got to see Fort St George and St Mary's Church.Then off to Santhome Basilica.Built over the tomb of Saint Thomas, and that's unusual as only 2 other churches in the world are built over the tombs of Saints.The others are Basilica of Saint Peter built over the tomb of St.Peter in Rome,and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela built over the tomb of St.James in Spain.  Even more interesting is that Saint Peter arrived in Chennai way back in AD 52.Spreading Christianity long before the arrival of the Portuguese.

Basilica of Santhome
So that was a must see for us.
The inside has been renovated recently and is well worth viewing.

But it was outside when the stark face of the tsunami disaster hit us.Outside,  to the rear of the Basilica were groups of men and women crowded into a large semi open sided warehouse type building.Some were cooking.Others lined up at a makeshift kitchen being served a small bowl of rice with nothing else added to it.I struck up a conversation with a local and was told that these were survivors of the tsunami.
"The fisher people from the beach ,the children were washed away sir!".

And for so many families there, there were so few young children......
The Church had opened it's heart to the people of all faiths,and were feeding the masses.
We found a Church aide taking donations and gave what we had.Simply not enough.These were people who not only had lost loved ones, but all their few possessions, all their clothing,even basic cooking utensils.These are the survivors of the fishing families that lived in makeshift huts, eking out their precarious living and raising their lost children amongst their boats,along the adjacent beach.And along with the wave went their livelihoods.Their fishing boats smashed, their nets shredded, and other gear swept away.
I only took 1 photo as I had no wish to intrude further.

And we'd had enough sightseeing.This really put us off .But we asked our still surly driver to take us along the beach to see the wave damage.It was only now beginning to sink in just how much devastation had occurred, so surely we'd be able to see it as we drove past.
But to us as we drove slowly by, there seemed to be very little.No real damage to see.No bodies, no smashed huts or wreckage.Where was it all?We couldn't get on to the beach as the police were keeping everyone off it.So I remarked "Doesn't seem to be much damage to see here!"
"16,000 people lived on that beach sir."came the quiet reply from our driver."The wave swept them away".
This gawking tourist cringed, as that driver set his knife of revenge in and twisted it!
That sticks in my mind.
What was more frightening about the tsunami strike on India , we were to read in the newspaper when we got back to our hotel.India has 27 nuclear reactors, most placed around it's coastline, where desalination plants supply cooling system water.Imagine reading how the tsunami caused major damage and 50 deaths at the  nuclear power plant worker's village,just 80 kilometres away from Chennai! Luckily, no sea water entered the cooling system intakes.
More to follow.Bookmark this.

Boxing Day Tsunami Blessing Part 2.

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Our Family's New Dog!

We have a mut. A rescue mut. She was supposed to be a wee dog when we got her. But you never can really tell when they're 4 month's old just how big they will eventually grow. Size of the feet! That's a pointer to their adult size. Works most of the time, but in this case someone didn't mention how long their legs could grow!

So we ended up with a horse!

That is one long legged, mongrel! Grown from a pup, who had been lost on Wellington's streets for months, probably a Christmas puppy gift, abandoned, found just skin and bones, starving, lost most of her hair, in such bad shape SPCA were going to euthanise her. But they took her in, gave her 2 weeks to respond to feeding or it was the end for her. Luckily she recovered.
We'd seen many dogs that left me cold that day at the Wellington SPCA when we went there to get another after 2 long time family dogs had passed on. And we'd made a pact it was going to be a small dog, something easy to manage, a dog we could leave with friends when we took off on our often long gone travels. When we saw her we knew nothing of her past, just a pup being walked past us on a leash by a wonderful volunteer walker.
When this pup walked past us, something just clicked!
And I said that's our dog.
And Lilly became part of our lives. Well, mainly mine. She and I walk to work each day. She minds my shop. Barks like mad to tell me a client is coming up the drive, then walks out the back to allow them in. She's my companion at work. Deaf to my endless rabbitting on. Forever pretending attentiveness to my latest profound diatribe. Never argues back. Just takes it on her chin as if to say "Get it off your chest. I'm listening!"
Why can't all the women in my life be like that?!!

And now our family has another dog.

Well not at home, but in Namibia. And it's not a dog you would want at home as they're rather untameable. Our new dog is an African Wild Dog or Painted Dog- one of Africa's most endangered animals. Originally estimated to number in excess of 500,000 and ranging across vast areas in Africa below the Sahara. Now sadly numbers have declined to less than 5,000! Hunting, disease and loss of wild habitat have all taken their toll.
african wilddog
At Naankuse, Namibia last August we had the privilege of seeing these up close. There are two brothers in a huge enclosure, as when taken in as pups, close human habituation has left them vulnerable if released into the wild, having lost their fear of humans. Sometimes sanctuaries have to balance up the ethics of keeping an animal in captivity against the realities of an uncertain fate if released.
Read about Naankuse here- Naankuse sanctuary
NaanKuse have recently taken in 14 wild dog pups from an area where they face persecution. With less than 200 wild dogs, (some estimates as low as 150) in all of that huge country of Namibia, there was very slim chance those pups would survive. But with possibly 10% of the entire wild dog population's survival at stake,what else should have been done?
Naankuse on facebook

Sure, the pups now in care will be human habituated, and now be unsuitable for survival if released.
This website has been set up with the object of helping fund conservation projects just like this. So our family has adopted one of these pups. And around May 2011, we will visit Naankuse and see first hand how our pup is. Take that first step in direct assistance in protecting Africa's diminishing wildlife. Adopt a Wild Dog Pup. That pup needs you!
If you have Paypal already set up then you can send the donation to donationsnaankuse@iway.na
and put in the notes £50 for wild dog pup. Or use your credit card.

Our Family's New Dog!

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