Showing posts with label Ethiopia.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ethiopia.. Show all posts

Thursday, October 20, 2011

This Moment. Fri 21 Oct. Lucy!



{This Moment} - A Friday ritual. A single photo - no words - capturing a moment from the week. A simple, special, extraordinary moment. A moment I want to pause, savor and remember. 

Adopted from Soulemama. Drop in there and leave your link and comments also.

If you're inspired to do the same, leave a link to your 'moment' in the comments for all to find and see.

Meet your great, great, great,...great, great, great,...great, great, great,great, phew...flipping great, great, great, great ( and some more...)  grandma!

National Museum, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia is where I took a photo of my earliest rellie.
This is a replica of the re-constructed fossil bones.

Check this site for information. http://www.crystalinks.com/lucy.


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Sunday, October 16, 2011

Magnificent Monday: Water.

Hi and welcome again to Magnificent Monday and our theme  this week is ''Water".
Waves, rivers, watersports, waterspouts, reflections on water, boats on water, boats underwater, bodyboards, surfboards, seashores, and more -bring them all over and link them up in the Mr Linky Tool at the bottom.  

The vital ingredient to all life, water is so precious. So calming to look and contemplate upon, yet so powerful in its anger. Bringing us life with its gentle rain, taking life with its storms and tempests. Nurturing our crops but savaging our fields with raging flood waters. We pray for it, yet we often curse it. Goes fine with a dram of Single Malt also...just a wee drop though.




If you have ever seen any of the world's largest waterfalls you can only be impressed by the mighty and awe-inspiring demonstrations of the power of water. Thousands of tonnes of water crashing and thundering over the edge of faults in the earth's crust to smash down in foamy torrents on rocks below, to flow through canyons and rocky defiles, feeding headwaters of mighty rivers that may flow onwards for 1,000's of miles through our continents, re-vitalising the land with water borne silt and nutrients deposited with annual floods and bringing life to all along the edges.

Ethiopia's rainy June-September season sees torrents of water cascading down once dry, rocky mountainside gullies into streams and rivers feeding Lake Tana in the northwestern plateau. Fed by a natural spring at Gish Abbai,  the Lesser Abay stream which flows into Lake Tana is the source of one of Africa's grandest rivers- the Blue Nile, which joins with the White Nile at Khartoum, Sudan to create the Nile, generally regarded as the world's longest river.

Long a dream destination of ours, finally standing at Tis Issat Falls, 30 kms south of Barhir Dar on Lake Tana, we looked for the Blue Nile...and found a shitty brown one! Heavy rains meant the falls were thunderously alive with water so silted up, so full of soil washed down off mountainsides and plains and heading at high speed up to Sudan and Egypt!


Catch a taxi or tour from Bahir Dar. Then a 30 minute walk across this old bridge, and around a hillside. 

We had to get through the usual gauntlet of locals with handicrafts, hustling a few birr off passing visitors; very high pressure tactics. Even the children's choir were doing their best to earn a living. Loved them. Kay taught them a new song.


Not one of the world's highest, but at 45 metres still a grand vista. 

In full flood here, but in the dry season more rocks than water.

Have a look at how green the country is. 


Heading back after a very scenic hike. 



To join in this week's Magnificent Monday-
1. Paste your name and a link to your Water article in the Mr Linky tool below.
2. Leave a comment to show you care.
3. It's good etiquette to edit into your article a reference to this article to let your readers know also.
4. Visit each post, leave a comment and share Stumble, Digg, Tweet and Facebook etc so we can all benefit.



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Thursday, July 28, 2011

Travel Photo Thursday July 28th: Gondar, Ethiopia.

 
Fasilides' castle. Gondar, Ethiopia.
 
 One of  Ethiopia's most interesting historical sites, the city of Gondar once the old imperial capital, contains a World Heritage site of a large complex of castles and palaces behind ancient plant covered walls. Sometimes referred to as the Camelot of Ethiopia, the castle area during July's rainy season was covered in brilliant green mosses and luxuriant foliage, and for me evoked a sense of being in Middle Earth: Arwen or Aragorn could have ridden through the grounds and not looked out of place.

The complex consists of several castles and palaces, one of the largest and most ornate is Fasilides' Castle built in 1640 by King Fasilides. 

Iyasu Palace has suffered damage from earthquakes and during WW2, when British troops captured the area from the Italians and brought about the end of their occupation of Ethiopia.
50 Birr or around $10 gets you admission and time to explore all the complex.

As pictured below, the Fasilides' bath is still in use, but undergoing renovation when we were there during the rainy season. This is in another part of the city and you need to pay separately.

Fasilides' Bath, Gondar, Ethiopia

On http://budgettravelerssandbox.com/ Nanci once again has a wonderful photo up. Check it out, and follow the links to all the other photo contributions for Travel Thursday Photos!

And please Stumble, Tweet or Facebook this with the share gadget below.


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Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Brouhaha at Abraha Atsbeha : A Kid Crosses the Line.

I




The confrontation

Slapped in the face by his father, the kid, all of 10 or maybe 11, stood shocked and embarrassed in the hostile circle of villagers and children. Such a change from a few minutes ago, proudly showing his family his 'find‘- a camera he had taken home, just before the posse of village children tracked him down. We’d enlisted their help to recover a camera one of our tour group had lost, probably taken from her pocket, while being mobbed by excited children. One of the older kids had been suspiciously absent. They found him...those kids knew everything that went on in their village. 
Waiting for the posse to return.
 Village justice can be tough and uncompromising. Honour is at stake. Tourists are guests here, and hospitality is extended and no harm should come to their guests. But one of the kids had now brought shame and disgrace upon the village, and he'd embarrassed his father and family in the eyes of the rest of the village. Now he stood before them.

Concerned, I asked our guide what would happen to the kid.

"Oh, he may go to jail!"




What?! A kid that age. A kid tempted by a shiny gizmo we tourists flout in their faces! A mere toy for us, but an unattainable sign of wealth...and that camera strap was hanging out of her pocket.…


Abraha Atsbeha overlooking the village.
We boarded our bus, glad to finally be on our way, late and a long drive ahead of us. But my thoughts kept returning to that kid, and his future. Jail? Ostracism? Branded a thief by the village? I felt sick about the mess.

And we'd changed him forever. We had intruded into his life. We’d caused the circumstances that placed temptation in his way. We insist on flaunting our wealth in front of kids with no shoes, and ripped and patched clothing!

What chance did he now have of just being a kid, or growing up leading a normal life?

We had been visiting Abraha Atsbeha, in eastern Tigray, Ethiopia. A semi-monolithic church, the original rear portion was whole cut from the rock in the 10th century, and with a portico built during the Italian occupation. The church stands high above a scattering of farmlets and a small village where  we parked. The interior of Abraha Atsbeha is richly adorned with paintings depicting biblical scenes.


The expulsion from Garden of Eden.

My camera did not focus well in the gloomy interior, but
you will see a magnificent photo slide show here-
This workman posed for the photo.

Outside local people were repairing one of the outbuildings which will be turned into a museum. They showed off their  masonry skills proudly as they carefully chiselled perfectly formed blocks from rough odd shaped rocks. 




The incredible thing about all Ethiopia's churches is they have a huge quantity of icons and ancient books dating back centuries. Not just one or two, but piles of large, thick volumes, leather bound and hand inscribed on vellum ; goatskin tanned to a paper thin texture. That museum will have to be huge...

Later as we travelled down the unsealed road, we passed a large group of men, some merely teenagers, all dressed in faded green type fatigues, escorted by AK47 carrying uniformed men. These were prisoners our guide informed us, out doing road repair.

My thoughts swung back to that kid being slapped by his father. What would happen to him?



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Saturday, February 19, 2011

Coffee Group meeting : Ethiopia Coffee Reminiscences.

Hiya everyone. I've invited everyone along to my blog today, to join me in a cup of coffee, and have a poetry reading while we partake. I was hoping to upload a video of myself reading my latest poetry effort, an undertaking that has taken up a lot of my creative time. But the mystery of this new technology has confounded me, so I will just have to post up the poem, and you can read at your leisure. My apologies.

Shoes have not been cobbled, the customers are ringing, and my wife has been wondering why the till is so bare. Business has taken a severe downturn while I perfect the art of composing a wee bit of prose. This has taken many hours of writing, re-writing, and re-writing..... But I struggled on, and crafted the following.

Coffee Reminiscences attempts to contrast our quick fix serve of coffee against the long, and drawn out affair in Ethiopia, ( the primary home of the coffee plant - Coffee Arabica,) where the serving of coffee is a ceremony undertaken with care and reverence to honour you as a guest.
You are my guests.
So remove your shoes at the door, go pour a cup, kick back and relax while we read some poetry.

This portrays my early wander to work each morning, with my dog, across our city centre car park where the aroma of coffee from Davie's Coffee Trailer  permeates the air. I resist the temptation, then stroll through the railway pedestrian underpass, glancing at the commuters who are enjoying a brew from the servery on the platform, and head over to my workshop where I make my own from coffee we brought back from Ethiopia.

I have been asked to speak at our local fund raising event for a Hospice, a project we both wholeheartedly support. I will be reading the following to up to 500 persons attending. So I'm practising on you, my honoured guests here.
Click on any photo for full size.
 
The car park with Davies' Coffee Trailer on the left.
Chill early morning, car park bare
Upon the air aromas
Drawing in, my nostrils flare.
The patient quad of customers
Await at Davies’ coffee trailer.

Railway platform, passengers gripping
Their hole in the wall quick fix.
Cubicle commuter tripping
Waiting for the 8.06.
Do memories come with each serving?

                     Savouring silky souvenir brew               
Mind wanders with aroma.
Cobbler’s last recedes from view
Sits woman near her burner.
Abyssinia, I feel anew.


No hurried serve; to honour bestow
Beans lovingly care roasted
Woman tends her brazier glow
Nor burnt, just lightly toasted
Steeped and served to cure your woe.



   The legend says a goat that pranced
And piquing shepherds ire
Taking beans from bush discovered
Was forbidden, cast on fire
Nature, the boy and monk rewarded.

 
This goat has been chewing coffee beans obviously....

Now nutty brew I slowly savour
Invigorating brain
Caffeine fix morning starter
I smuggled off the plane.
God please forgive this coffee craver.

So now as you rush for your cubicle
And grab another quick fix brew
Consider just how wonderful
Coffee Arabica’s history
Comes free with every mouthful.



Traditional coffee pots at Timbati Market






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Friday, February 18, 2011

Coffee Group Invitation To All Friends And Followers.

All friends and followers are invited to a coffee meeting on this site on Sunday 20th February.

To RSVP please leave your attendance/ non- attendance note in the comments of this post. Don't be shy, but come along, post your comment telling me you'll be attending. You can then trot along here anytime from Sunday onwards, take a seat, I'll pour you a great cup of percolated coffee, and then I will entertain you.
Yes, there will be entertainment posted on this blog post on Sunday. I'm not going to tell you what it is yet, but I have been working on it for some few weeks, brewing it, letting it simmer, boiling it again, getting it to the peak of its perfection. And on Sunday I will bring it forth and you will be entertained.

All you have to do now, is register your attendance/non-attendance by posting yes/no in the comments at the end of this post, and swing by anytime again after Sunday. Don't let me down please. I'm trying out something new here by asking you to comment first, then I'll post up the entertainment.
How's that just for fun. But coffee will be served, your imagination will be titillated ( how I love that word ) and I will reveal my latest.

So place your comments now please.
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Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Ethiopia: The Highway of Life. A few photos along the road.

In Ethiopia, life is carried out along the highways. Here's a few interesting pics. Just double clink upon them and you'll bring them up full size. Enjoy!

The drive from Addis Ababa. Green hills and farms everywhere.

A lot of construction in various stages of slowly happening, sometime.

Industry along the roadside.

Shops and markets spill out beyond the pavement.

The local taxi.

Donkeys carrying grain to market.
Camel traffic jam.

Keep out of the way of these horny beasts!


Even a few busted up tanks around.


Carrying the household fuel is an early morning task.


The donkeys seem to be overloaded.




Off to market, but time for a quickie....

Now that's a lot of camel butt!

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Friday, January 28, 2011

Coffee, Real Coffee in Ethiopia: And New Life For Women.

Memories of Coffee in Ethiopia.

The smell of fresh coffee wafts into my nostrils: they flare sympathetically in response, drawing deeply on that comforting aroma, reviving Ethiopia memories with each intake. As we cut through the shopping mall car park, Davies' Coffee trailer has a quartet of waiting customers this early morning. I won't succumb to the temptation, as there will be more of that delicious aroma percolating through the pedestrian railway underpass, from the coffee hole-in-the-wall on the Paraparaumu railway platform. Waiting commuters clutch their discardable cups, fortifying themselves for the hour long trip to their cubicles- if there isn't another delay or breakdown on the lines. On those mornings, I just manage to avoid sarcastic grins at the hundreds of frustrated commuters as we wander past them on our 20 minute walk to my workshop. Thank goodness I don't have to join the throng of commuters. Dragging my dog Lilly's nose out of the bush where she's been exploring doggie smells, we head on over to my workshop where I can make my own special percolator brew. Almost looks as good as Davie's. But better, much better as it's made from coffee we brought home from Ethiopia.

Coffee beans on tree at Lake Tana, Ethiopia.
Machiato- Ethiopia Coffee
Coffee these days, brings back memories of our time in  Ethiopia, the primary home of the coffee plant, , Coffee Arabica , from where it spread to Yemen then throughout cultures around the world. Little wonder the Italians had to invade Ethiopia- some people would die for a great coffee! After they got kicked out, their parting legacy was found in an aromatic concoction called Machiato- fresh roasted, ground and brewed in front of you, served in a small glass or cup with hot milk floated on top. Fantastic. But order a double shot - one small glass is just not enough. You can afford it- a serving may cost you 40cents US.

Walk into most restaurants in Ethiopia and near the entrance will be a woman tending to a brazier, roasting and brewing to each patron's order. She stokes the fire with charcoal, gently coaxing a not too fierce glow rather than flames, the beans resting in a pan so she can shake them constantly, ensuring the beans on the hot plate are gently roasted and not burned. Here is the secret to serving coffee that has a depth of rich, almost chocolaty taste, an aromatic nose, a sense of freshness, and retaining just enough sweetness to need no added sugar. Meals are all the more pleasurable, as she may walk around the restaurant with the roasted beans, so the smell fills the restaurant, titillating your sensory membranes with its promise of gratification to come. Being prepared to your order, no additives, beans picked, dried then roasted and served within days, lends added enjoyment from its freshness, you may never find back home.


Ploughshare Women's Skill Centre.
We had breakfasted early, and were on the road by 8am heading towards Gondar, ancient capital, and home of romantic castles and palaces. But first a stop at the Women's Ploughshare Trust project. This is a live-in training organisation funded by Government, and donations, to train women in skills they can use to earn a living in their villages.




About 65 women, mostly solo mums, who may have lost their husbands through AIDS, live there and are being trained in basic crafts such as pottery, weaving, sewing and animal husbandry. Apart from basic home making experience, women generally do not have the skills to be able to earn an income. In many countries, women who lose a husband are marginalised, even ostracised, because along with the death of their husband goes their means of living. Often prevented from gainful employ, by tradition, cultural mores or merely lacking in skills, widows may be reduced to a life of begging, or prostitution. At Ploughshare, as they become proficient in new skills, they will return to their village and in turn train others, thereby sowing the seeds of micro-business for others in their communities.

I thought it a very effective way of making a difference at the grassroots level where assistance is most needed.
Here we were to be able to observe a very targeted way of contributing to getting people out of the poverty trap, by training them in crafts necessary at local village level. And by creating a network of small training groups throughout the country, as another mother takes her newly acquired skills back to her village, and forms a group to train others.
After being shown the various sewing, weaving and pottery studios, we were treated to a full coffee ceremony in the meeting building. Traditionally, coffee or bunna (boo-na) service is a ceremony as much to honour you as a guest, as it is to serve it at its best to bring out the maximum aroma and flavour. The meeting room was thatched roof, with sticks herringbone patterned around the sides, but very airy and cool. Once again the coffee beans were roasted carefully, and ground in a wooden mortar ( mukecha)  using a heavy metal pestle, then steeped in a pottery coffee jug called a jebena. We were served in small china cups.








It was while waiting for coffee to be served, I was able to watch the birth of a calf, by the lone cow Ploughshare had separated from the herd. It struck me as symbolic of what Ploughshare stood for- new life for these women.


No, that calf has not broken out of a large egg- it's some sort of broken ornamentation now used as a water trough.

Ploughshare, and the birth of the calf, spring to mind vividly these days with each cup of coffee as the aroma takes me back to Ethiopia. My last bag will run out this week and it will be back to a quick fix with my 'nuke' brew- 50/50 milk and water, microwaved until near exploding, then granulated instant spooned on top, resulting in a thick marbled foam top.
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We spent 1 week in Addis Ababa, before joining Gap Adventures Ethiopia Explorer DEN tour.
It is wonderful to know the work Ploughshare are doing amongst Ethiopia's women is supported by Gap Adventures  by incorporating this as part of their itinerary. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and bought good quality handwoven scarves as gifts for family back home.
Video here-
Ploughshare Women's Crafts Training Center

All photos by Jim McIntosh

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Friday, January 14, 2011

Meeting Hanna. Child Sponsorship- Why you should!

My wife and I have written this about visiting with our sponsored child in Addis Ababa Last August 2010.


Visiting a sponsored child can be a humbling experience for the sponsor. We come armed with gifts of a practical nature, but the sincerity and joy with which these gifts are both given, and received far outweigh the value of the gifts themselves. This sums up our feelings after meeting Hanna in the overcrowded city of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. It’s a city where over half the inhabitants endure unsanitary conditions, many living with no amenities- a corrugated iron and plastic shack may be home for many. Poverty is in your face. Having suffered decades of warfare and famines, Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in Africa. Peace has brought a new opportunity for everyone. To us, it seemed reflected in every face, was a joy that stability now means a chance to build a new life for themselves and their families,...however fleeting it may turn out to be.


We were picked up from our  Ras Hotel in downtown Addis Ababa by Saba from the Childfund backed project and driven several kilometres to the their compound. This comprised of several modest buildings of offices and school rooms, set around a central roughly paved courtyard.

Here we met our lovely Hanna, who is no longer a child, but a very attractive 16 year old.  We have sponsored her for 6 years now. She presented Kay with a bouquet of fresh tulips. Overjoyed to finally meet her, we spontaneously hugged Hanna to establish ourselves as friends and  banish the initial shyness. We were careful to discuss with Saba beforehand what sort of greeting and physical contact was culturally appropriate. We were able to chat via our interpreter Saba although Hanna knew some English words. An office was made available for us to continue our meeting, and it was there that we gave Hanna the letters and cards children from Kay's childcare centre in  N.Z. had made for her. Her excitement and pleasure at opening these was apparent. Instinctively we felt she had no great expectations about receiving lots of gifts, so her pleasure continued as we gave her lots of clothes and a stuffed kiwi. We wanted Hanna to have something special from N.Z. and the kiwi seemed a good choice as it is our icon and very special to us. Other gifts included toiletries and stationery. We also had gifts for her family which comprised of Mum, Dad and Grandma.  Hanna's Mum could not jeopardise her job just to meet us; jobs are not easy to get in Addis Ababa, but we were delighted to be able to meet Hanna’s Dad and Grandma.

Grandmother and Father
Hanna's Grandmother could speak no English, but she communicated by her emotions just as much as one could ever say. Here is a woman who had grown up through the rebellion, warfare with its atrocities and destruction, and the starvation of the 80's, probably having experienced the loss of some family members or friends. To look upon her face was to feel the joy she radiated. The odd tear we saw was not wiped away, she probably was enjoying these tears of joy as much as she could. Deep lines upon her face hinted to me she'd shed too many for other reasons.

At the compound, the NGO also operates a school for the kids of families too poor to afford the few Bir (Ethiopian money) it costs for their government schools. These children receive some basic education and one meal each day. Our sponsorship is helping not just one child and her family, but also the wider community.
Hanna seemed a healthy, happy child and if we were to compare her to many other Ethiopian children whom we saw in our travels around the country, we could not help but think- if it was not for our sponsorship, she too would look as undernourished, barefoot and ragged. It made us realise that we really were making a difference.

Our travels took us north of Addis Ababa, where we were surprised by the beauty of the clean, green countryside. It was the rainy season and our days were interspersed with thunderstorms which lasted a short time, an hour or so. This much needed rain provided the water for the crops such as tef, barley, corn, wheat and broadbeans, which we saw growing in many areas. The craggy topped, and usually heavilly terraced and cultivated mountains  provided the backdrop for these rural scenes. There was very little plastic rubbish lying around, and our guide Ashenafi said people earned a small income from cleaning up the rubbish. Shepherd boys, some as young as 7 years old cracking whips which made a sound like a rifle shot, could be seen taking their family herd of animals such as goats, cattle and donkeys out to graze on the roadside. School is compulsory but most schooldays are half days, partly because they don't have enough teachers and also because the children are needed to help with their family's animals.

Although our days were long, sometimes up to 13 hours, as we travelled between historic places, we were never bored. I called the road we travelled "The Highway of Life" and that's exactly what it was- a highway where everyone from villages and towns travelled on foot [usually barefoot] with their families and animals, often going to a market which could be as far as 20kms away. For us it was a unique opportunity to observe how these people lived their daily lives, every family activity is carried out along those highways. Water carrying, firewood gathering, crops being tended, goods being moved on donkey or camel backs ...the roads were vibrant with life, and we had to drive through it all! When we stopped by the roadside for a break we often chatted to these people as everyone wanted to practise their English. We would be surrounded by children, who seemed to spring out from the bare earth, although the reality was that a single child herder spotting us would call out. Any other child who heard that call of  "Money, Money, Moneeeeeee" would pick it up and echo it further afield. You could see a completely bare vista of hills, plains or valleys suddenly come alive with kids running towards us from all directions. I guess the stopping of one lone tourist bus was a welcome break to the tedium of watching their animals.
Life is hard for most Ethiopians. 80% depend upon agriculture for their survival. And children often miss out on schooling because they are essential to the family's survival. The youngest have to shepherd the few sheep or goats foraging the uncultivated areas of land, often just that thin strip of grass between road and field. Older boys would tend cattle or donkeys further out in the hills. The half day schooling allows for these kids to get an education after their animals have been seen to.

Children in the cities would also have a responsibility to help the family survive. Collecting any recyclable plastic, metal or glass for a few Bir. Shoeshine boys are thick on the sidewalks. Trayboys hawk cigarettes, tissues, chewing gum etc. just to earn a little. This is the life of many kids growing up in Addis Ababa or any other of the larger cities.

Our sponsorship of Hanna through Childfund, means not only 1 child has a chance at getting an education, and attending higher schooling to create a future for her, but also assists many others. The NGO backed by Childfund, administers 1600 child sponsorships in Ethiopia, making it possible for other community programs to be implemented. So your donations targeted in this way, have an effect beyond just that 1 child. Maybe she becomes a teacher herself?  Whatever occupation she does follow, education has created those options. Hopefully the education Hanna receives may give her whole family a better chance for their future.

Ethiopia has a fast growing economy, and a tourism industry that is taking off, and unlike other African oil producing countries, much of that economic growth is reaching the ordinary people. Government policies have improved crop prices to farmers, and we could see that happening. Everywhere we travelled, farmers are building new homes  and communities are investing in farming technology. Markets everywhere were full of produce, healthy livestock for sale. With that little bit of assistance our dollars provide, a young girl, her family, and community are better placed to be part of that growth.

Footnotes-
I'm adding a coment from Kiri at Childfund with relevant info here-
Kiri Carter - ChildFund said...

Thank you, Jim, for posting your experience of meeting Hanna. What a fantastic visit! Every year about 40-50 sponsors from NZ visit their sponsored children and I talk to quite a few of them on the phone. It's always a life-changing experience.

What does sponsorship entail? Through ChildFund New Zealand, it costs NZ$44/month. You can exchange letters with your sponsored child which is a really great thing to do and you get a report on how your child is doing. How long the sponsorship lasts depends on the age of the child when you start. Usually sponsorship will stop when the child comes of age (typically 18 years), gets married, moves away from the project or starts a full time job. In some special cases sponsors have been known to fund a sponsored child's university education. If you have any more questions check out our FAQ section (http://www.childfund.org.nz/faq/index.html) or call us on 0800 223 111.

The kudos for sponsoring children should go to my wife Kay. She's the main reason why we have been long term sponsors.
If you would like to read of our visit to another of our Childfund sponsored children,
 read here. The Village Pump

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