Holes in My Soles: 4/1/11

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Travel Photo Thursday : April 28th.

Sunsets are when a countryside comes alive. Colours deepen, shadows stretch across the valleys and hills bringing them out into deeper contrast, and a contemplative peace settles upon the land. A bland, bare country scene can take on a whole new life as the sun drops lower.

The traveller knows this, and sits and waits, camera ready....

We love sunset or sunrise photos! Here's several photos of the same scene taken at Didema Lodge, Drakensberg Mountains, South Africa, 2009 with my Canon SX10IS shooting at about 7MPS.

As the sun dropped we sat outside our lodge watching the colours change. I tried different settings to get different effects and the often cloud obscured sun gave varying results. Pic number 4 was shot on 'Nightscene" to bring out that sepia look.

And the final shot, the highlighted colours and deep shadows, was when the sun rose next morning. Colours had deepened dramatically.

On Budget Travelers Sandbox , Nancie has a great photo of her hometown, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. Follow the link and take a peek and then follow a lot of other travellers posting up their most interesting travel photos!

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

X IS FOR XANADU! THE A- Z CHALLENGE!

X IS FOR XANADU!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE!

ENJOY!

Monday, April 25, 2011

W IS FOR WAR! THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

W IS FOR WAR!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

W was going to be for War Aftermath! But it got supplanted.

We were going to consider the ongoing consequences of war. Of how young men- mere boys, were taught to kill and maim, and found strange delights in bordellos, and then plonked back into civilian life and expected to carry on as before. But the poetry I wrote exploring that theme has been said to be too important to fritter away, so it could be destined for greater exposure.

We'll have to wait.

Welwitschia Mirabilis.Picture by Thomas Schoch.

So W is for Welwitschia, as far away from war as any subject could be. Although a few Russian made tanks may have rolled over some in the Border War fought in Angola as this weird plant can be found there and in only one other country- Namibia.

This plant is amazing. So weird, unique, and a perfect example of how to live in an arid country. The huge strappy leaves have the ability to absorb moisture deposited on the leaves by fogs or morning condensation.

Welwitschia Mirabilis is one of the oldest living plants known, thought to live up to 2,000 years. I was thrilled to find these growing at the Petrified Forest in Kunene region of Namibia, not far from Twyfelfontein, the subject of an earlier post. This plant grows only two leaves, which keep on growing but the ends will fray and appear split and torn which gives the appearance of many strap like leaves appearing from the central base. I photographed some individual plants of less than a metre across and was told they could be 100 years old. Another of 20 centimetres width was over 40 years old. Welwitschiais are dioecous, being either male or female, distinguished by the flowers.

Male Welwitschia at Petrified Forest.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

V IS FOR VIETNAM! THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

V IS FOR VIETNAM!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

Vietnam is burned into the memory of many who remember the graphic images of the American War, (as the Vietnamese would call the Vietnam War ) that held us glued to our flickering black and white TVs of the 60s. We both knew a lot about its history- of French colonization, Japanese invasion, and civil war culminating in the bloodiest defeat of full scale American intervention. New Zealand's involvement made sure we would: we had friends who fought there.

As idealistic teenagers of that era of hippies, flower power, long hair and anti-war demonstrations, our perceptions of Vietnam were formed, and still very negative when in early 2002 we looked at travelling to that country.

Our trip through Vietnam was to change completely our attitudes to travel. We learned to leave our preconceptions behind. It also raised the question in our mind, of how we can be at war in a country, and a few decades later be travellers there, welcomed by everyone we met.

Today is ANZAC Day, commemorating the landings on April 25th 1915 of Australian and New Zealand Army Corps at what is now known as ANZAC Cove, Gallipoli, on the Dardanelles Peninsular, Turkey, a day of remembrance for all casualties fighting in our wars. It's fitting we remember Vietnam today.

And ask these questions-

Should the war have been fought?

What was our country doing there?

We still remember Vietnam as the most colorful country we have ever experienced. These photos will tell you why. They are low resolution as very early digital photography days.

Temple in Hoi An.

Streets of Hoi An

Temple near Hue.

Women labourers, Hoi An.

Woman labourer, Hoi An.

Water puppet show, Hanoi.

Friday, April 22, 2011

T IS FOR TWYFELFONTEIN : THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

T IS FOR TWYFELFONTEIN!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

Ancient school ground?

Twyfelfontein ( in Africaans meaning uncertain spring ) is in Namibia's southern Kunene region. This World Heritage site covers an area of the Huab Valley and contains many areas of rock art etched on the reddish sandstone rocks on the slopes of the surrounding table mountain landforms. Over 5,000 individual depictions have now been catalogued, some thought to date as far back as 5- 6,000 years ago by the early hunter-gatherers. Later Khoikhoi inhabitants of the area produced their own rock engravings and paintings.

Visitor centre at Twyfelfontein

Leave a tip for the toilet.

The artwork upon rocks scattered through the area.

Typical terrain of the Heritage Site.

Zebra, gazelle and giraffe depictions.

Many reasons are given for why early humans would spend so much time decorating rocks or cave walls. Has the need to express one's artistic sense been with us from earliest times? Did early man just get bored and feel like graffiti covering his cave or environment not unlike rebellious youth of today? Or perhaps a need to give offerings to their belief in the gods they found all around them in everyday life?

But perhaps in many cases there is a simpler and more practical reason for so many paintings or engravings of animals and humans in a small area- a school!

Yes, a school, or a teaching aid for the young boys of a tribe. When being initiated into manhood, young boys would be brought to these rocks and given lessons from their elders how to identify, hunt and kill an animal.

Today we build multi- million dollar universities.

This moment – A Friday ritual. A single photo – no words April 22

...."A single photo – no words – capturing a simple, special, extraordinary moment. A moment I want to pause, savor and remember."

“This Moment” is a ritual found on Life inspired by theWee Man adopted from SouleMama which was introduced to me by Sarah-Jane. If you find yourself touched by a Moment and would like to participate, post your picture on a Friday and leave your link in the comments section..

Leading up to Easter and we must remember Easter is about Christ's crucifixion and resurrection, for me, life, death, and renewal of life are all summed up by flowers.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

S IS FOR STEVENSON: ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON! THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

S IS FOR STEVENSON: ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE.

Born 13 November 1850 RL Stevenson died in Samoa on 3 December 1894.

In 1890, the highly aclaimed Scots writer settled on the island of Upolu, Samoa, building a 2 story house upon his estate at Vailima. The house still stands, having been extended and later used as the German Governor's house during their colonial period, later falling into disrepair. Now renovated, the building is a museum dedicated to Robert Louis Stevenson.

Robert L Stevenson involved himself in Samoan life and culture, and had an active interest in the politics of the time, siding with the Samoans struggling for their independance against the colonial powers of America, Germany and Britain who jockeyed for control of Samoa. The Samoan people hold him in high respect to this day. He earned the name 'Tusitala- teller of tales.'

Upon his death, a path to the top of Mount Vaea behind and overlooking Vailima was cleared by villagers who came from all over Samoa. Tusitala's coffin was then passed by the Samoans lining the track, to the top where he was buried.

In May 2010, Kay and I holidayed in Samoa and top of our things to do was visit Vailima, and to view the museum and his grave. We arrived in time for the morning guided house tour, where rooms are set up as they would have been in his time. Shelves are packed with copies of his works. As he is amongst the top 30 most translated of authors, there are many books in various languages, some of great age. As with the rest of beautiful Samoa, the grounds are immaculately cared for, planted in lush colorful tropical vegetation. The walk from the museum to the top of Mt Vaea is through dense forest, quite steep in many places, but once at the top the view is well worth the effort.

Under the wide and starry sky,

Dig the grave and let me lie.
Glad did I live and gladly die,
And I laid me down with a will.
This be the verse you grave for me:
Here he lies where he longed to be;
Home is the sailor, home from sea,
And the hunter home from the hill.

R IS FOR REPTILES: THE A-Z CHALLENGE.

R IS FOR REPTILES!

THE A-Z CHALLENGE.

Reptiles! I love them. Lithe, sinewy, cool bodied, scaly yet sensually smooth, they absolutely fascinate me. I adore picking up a lizard, or even better a snake. The way their strong, muscular body glides and twines around my arms or neck, around my body is just so exhilarating. I love it! I'm a snakeman! In Varanasi, I was picking up this cobra when my wife snapped this pic. Yeah, I know the snakecharmers snakes have all had their fangs removed, so I was perfectly safe.... After I had played around with this reptile, I asked the guy how long he'd been doing his act..

"Not very long Sir. This is new snake. Soon to get him fixed"

Oh dear!

Do you reckon he was telling the truth or scaring me?!

Here is another reptile -

Tuatara, New Zealand's ancient reptile.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Travel Photo Thursday April 21.

Travel Photo Thursday is this picture taken 10 years ago this week.

With Japan facing nuclear disaster at Fukushima after a devastating earthquake and a tsunami, we are reminded of visiting Japan so long ago. Here is a photo of our pilgrimage to Hiroshima Peace Memorial, a reminder of Japan's other worst disasters- World War 2 and the atomic and hydrogen bombs dropped by the Americans to end that conflict.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial UNESCO Heritage Site.

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial is located just across the river from the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park where there is a museum That provides a graphic portrayal of the destruction and death wrought by the bomb on Hiroshima, but in contrast outside in the park is peace and beauty...and crowds of visitors. We struck many groups of schoolchildren that brilliant Spring day. We had missed the best of the cherry blossoms but were able to admire many late flowering varieties. Our trip to Japan was to attend our nephews marriage to a Japanese girl he had met in Auckland, New Zealand. We don't have a lot of photographs of the trip as in those days of early digital photography, memory sticks had tiny capacity, 8- 64 megabytes and were hellishly expensive.

But here are a couple of standout photos of Andrew and Emi. They have 3 children now, and are currently visiting her family in Kobe, Japan.

On Budget Traveler's Sandbox Nancie has her usual great Thusday Travel Photo up.

Inle Lake is one of her favorite places in Myanmar. Take a look!

U IS FOR UH YUCK!!! THE A- Z CHALLENGE!

U IS FOR UH YUCK!!!

UH, YUCK, GROSS, ETCH, ARGH, LET ME OUTA HERE!

Plenty of uh yuck experiences on the road. Try Cambodia for that perfect uh yuck event!

Travellers will have come across street vendors selling all sorts of food. Everything and anything is for sale. On the bus ride from Phnom Pehn to Siem Reap we were feeling hungry and welcomed a halfway stop. A chance to stretch our legs, grab a drink and a bite to eat....until we saw these-

Guess what these are?

Deep fried spiders!

Uh yuck!

Yep, spiders of the big tarantula kind about the size of a small human palm. It's not certain when the practice of eating fried spiders started: some would say during the intense starvation years of the Pol Pot era, which would be quite likely.

Not sure why they would want to continue though.

We also came across these at the same village. Deep fried locusts. Uh Yuck!

And then we saw these! Couldn't figure out what they were!

Uh Yuck!

Anyone know what they were?

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Q IS FOR QUEASY! : THE A- Z CHALLENGE

Q IS FOR QUEASY!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE

Queasy!

Yes that horrible feeling in the stomach that sneaks all through you when you've eaten something dodgy, partaken of great food at the cleanest looking restaurant, or even enjoyed a well presented buffet at a sumptuous resort! Just bad luck, but it goes hand in hand with travelling.

Sure you plastered yourself with antiseptic handwash gel, you were careful to only drink bottled water, and you wiped yourself all over after using the toilets. But you are a traveller, you travel new countries, you eat unusual food, you take on bacteria your body just isn't used to, and sooner or later you will get struck down with that horrible nauseous queasy feeling....and you just gotta go....!!

Yep, I know the feeling too well. Before taking off to Ethiopia we both spent a fortune on a course of Dukerol. Two oral doses each at $50 a shot, plus the doctors fee, and we thought the $300 would be money well spent. Dukerol should protect the traveller from cholera and the range of tummy bugs in that family that cause a lot of traveller diarrhea. But 4 days into our Addis Ababa experience I was feeling queasy? Can you believe my luck!? What a waste of money on that med.

Orchha Resort.

Orchha Resort backdropped by ancient temples.

I got really crook in Orchha, a city of ancient temples and palaces in between Jhansi and Gwalior in Tikamgarh district of Madhya Pradesh state, India. The buffet at the Orchha Resort I care to blame- it looked so appealing. But it was the height of summer, and long power cuts played havoc with any attempt to keep food refrigerated, so I guess some may have sat on that buffet table too long!

Next day was an early start to get down to Varanasi, and our tour group spent what seemed like hours on the railway platform waiting for the train with me stretched out over any comfy soft bag I could capture, too weak to move. I knew where the restrooms were- anyone in my condition just has too.

Suddenly the need for a mad dash was upon me, so I charged down the platform straight into what looked like the toilets. There was a large room, and a male supervisor behind his desk waving his arms and yelling at me. I grimaced, waved him aside and rushed past him, through a mass of women and just managed to push past one heading into the cubicle.

What went on in there I have no need to describe!

Feeling much better, I exited from the cubicle, through the crowd of women, to be confronted by that gesticulating and agitated supervisor, who was giving me the head wobbles and waving at something outside. I presented him with what I thought was the requested service fee carefully with both hands, smiled and gestured thanks to him. I was out of there.

Only to charge back in 15 minutes later!

This time my new found gentleman friend waved his hands in what I later thought was a sign of resignation, and I charged through another throng of women. Strange that men seem to be able to hold on a long time in India I thought... managed to dive into another cubicle just beating another woman to it.

Coming out my friend never even bothered to wave at me...I guess we were old friends by now. And who knows...we could be meeting again very soon. This was starting to cost a few dollars too!

Those bags had kinked a few back muscles and I was feeling good enough to take a walk towards the other end of the platform... right past a room full men...

The penny dropped!

Have you ever had a queasy travel moment?

Monday, April 18, 2011

P IS FOR PREPARE! THE A- Z CHALLENGE!

P IS FOR PREPARE!

THE A - Z CHALLENGE.

PREPARE!

When travelling, do your preparation with a few simple security tips.

1. Copy important documents and email them to yourself. - flight tickets, passport, visas, travel insurance, driver's licence, itinerary, local contact details for your country's consulate or embassy, credit card helpline number, etc.

2. Leave a copy of itinerary and accommodation contact details with friends, or next of kin.

3. Let your bank and credit card company know when and where you are going.

4.Get your Will up to date, and appoint a Power of Attorney

Gee sounds like you are not coming home hey?

Well sadly, some people don't.

Preparing for travel in southern Africa.

For my next trip to Namibia and Botswana, I'm going well prepared. Being a canny shoemaker, I have made my own items to keep my valuables safe. A little preparation and my money, credit cards and passport will be as secure as they could ever be.

I'd like to illustrate here what I have done, but hey, this is a well read site! Readership is massive these days, and my map demographics show a lot of readers based in countries I'm going to.

So I can't tell you now what I have done 'cause wouldn't be secret security stuff then, would it?

Best I keep my secrets until I get back...

O IS FOR OOTY!

O IS FOR OOTY.

O + O + T + Y = OOTY!

OOTACAMUND, INDIA.

Oooty, or Ootacamund is the municipal capital of Nilgiri District in the western area of Tamil Nadu State, India. Right smack in the middle of southern India, Ooty, high up in the Nilgiri hills, offers respite from the heat and humidity of the low coastal areas for today's travellers, as it once did for the colonial rulers of past times. Wander around Ooty and you will find many archiyectural reminders of that era, some in faded grandeur, others well maintained.

Our Dragoman tour dropped us at Metupalaiyam so we could catch the Nilgiri Mountain Railway Toy Train early in the morning. The train wound its way through the hills, covered in tea plantations, with a couple of stops at Coonoor and Wellington, arriving at Ooty at around noon. That was a beautiful and interesting trip. Catching glimpses of people's lives as we climbed higher and higher.

Info on timetables you'll find here- Ooty-train info

Our beds for the night were at the YWCA. Beware, the pictures make the rooms look more plush than they really are, but clean, simple rooms, shared toilets and bathrooms, with a very large and grand dining room still with a hint of colonial grandeur about it.

Ooty can turn on a surprise- the sunset was spectacular!
This photo taken through the dining room window glass is not enhanced.

Ooty has a fond place in our hearts. Our exploration next day took in several of the seven Christian Churches, and the Botanical Gardens.

While walking up to St Stephens we heard the songs of a choir ringing out across the valley, becoming stronger as we approached a church. The uplifting and joyful voices drew us towards the church, we hesitated, then opened the door and were greeted by a wonderful sound of men, women and children singing their hearts out, so full of the joy of God.

Wow, what a moment!
Sunday morning church choir in full melodious concert...we were enthralled!

The minister welcomed us in, beckoning us forward to sit down and join in. Every male on the right hand side turned to face us, and every woman on the left likewise... singing at the tops of their voices... a true moment of welcome. Kay and I were entranced with the melody of joyful happiness resounding around us. I wanted so much to video our experience but I put my camera and video recorder away. Sometimes you just have to sink into the moment. An experience like that is so rare, no distractions should be countenanced. They welcomed us - we were not going to intrude upon them but just to enjoy the singing.

Overlooking Ooty. The church where we enjoyed the choir is extreme left centre.

Eventually when they finished their singing, the minister began addressing his people, and we took our leave to continue up the top of the hill to St Stephens.

Ooty, or Ootacamund remains a place we fondly remember.

St Stephens.

We don't often think about India having a Christian religion, but it is its third largest faith, comprising around 2.5% of the population having arrived with St Thomas in 52 AD.

Friday, April 15, 2011

N HAS TO BE FOR NAMIBIA! THE A- Z CHALLENGE

N HAS TO BE FOR NAMIBIA!

THE A- Z CHALLENGE

I WILL BE HEADING BACK THERE IN 3 WEEKS TIME!

This will be my third trip to Namibia, and I am really looking forward to it. There's a strong sense of anticipation and excitement at seeing the desert elephants again, of knowing that my wee contribution of building rock walls does help in protecting them, by lessening conflict between elephants and local villagers or farmers.

Online I take every opportunity to publicise Elephant-Human Relations Aid - EHRA, and Naankuse wildlife sanctuary, for the work they and volunteers do in Namibia. It's my way of helping.

This time I will be once more a part of the effort on the ground there with EHRA.

I have to go...probably the last time I will ever get there. I'm not getting any younger, and while the mind and attitude are certainly young and gung ho, I have to recognise I am not a young guy anymore. Other places are calling out for us to explore. This time Kay will travel to UK while I am dying of thirst in the Namib desert!

Sunset at Brandberg

Namibia is one of those countries that encaptures you with its varied and beautiful scenery. The vast scarcely populated landscapes, the colorful people, the rich colours of the earth, the variety of terrain, the burning sunsets and diverse wildlife speak to me. It truly is my kind of place.

Just click on the photos to bring them up full size then 'Back' on your browser.

Take a look. Let these pictures speak to you!